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[TR] Stuart- Ice Cliff Glacier 2/26/2005

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Climb: Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier


Date of Climb: 2/26/2005


Trip Report:

Old February trip report. With all the great weather I had to get out. After unsuccessful attempt to rope in a partner, I was looking for something I could solo. Something within my grade but still interesting. After reading Tod trip report, Ice Cliff Gl sounds like a good objective. At the very least I will have a look.

Slept in my car at junction of Icicle & Eightmile Friday night. Woke up at 3:30am to a cold morning, frost covered windows inside and out. Started hiking up the road @ 4am under a bright full moon. It was so bright I didn’t need a headlamp until I reach the trail. With the help of a great boot path, I was at the base of route at 9. From the crest of the moraine, I could see a party of three just about to exit out the couloir. Man, they must have started very early. Up through the ice cliff on the left, one 12’ AI2 to flats.

Another 10’ WI2 entering the couloir then 45 to 50 degree neve to the top. I spent about 3 hours on route and another 30 minutes to the summit. Coming down the Sherpa was tedious, couple of inches snow covering 45 degree neve. At the bottom of the glacier I caught up to the party three. Turns out to be Gyselinck and party, back from a failed attempt the previous weekend. Back to car around 7:30, hour later I eating a big bowl of pasta and drinking a Dead Guy in town. Great conditions, Great Weather!!





Gear Notes:

Tools & Crampons


I would like to thank the companies that I sponsor: GU, Safeway Peanutbutter and Bread. If it wasn't for them none of this would have happened!!


Approach Notes:


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Any more recent info regarding approach, conditions, etc? THANKS!


Nice, succinct TR with nice photos.

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