Cpt.Caveman Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 BTW does anyone else think drydroooling on granite is difficult as fuck on slabs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 The routes are around M7 or 8 I hear. And not super steep. They are well bolted and top ropable, go for Caveman, you'd be suprised... I'm looking forward to checking it out this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I dont know what the m grade is. I doubt I would seek them out but good to know they are there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I just read this thread (don't know why), and it just sounds to me like some misogynists (read: greenfork, thelawgod, et. al), wanted to boss a girl around because they think they're better. Get over yourselves gentlemen, people get overly excited sometimes. [ 11-12-2002, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: E-rock ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 If you want to drytool check out Ha Ling NE Face I hear it's never been done in winter. Hurry its' winter there now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgod Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by E-rock: I just read this thread (don't know why), and it just sounds to me like some mysoginists (read: greenfork, thelawgod, et. al), wanted to boss a girl around because they think they're better. Get over yourselves gentleman, people get overly excited sometimes. Oh please—give me a freaking break . Yes, I was harsh on the goddess, and, yes, my post was crass and overly profane (rather unnecessary I admit, but the cumulative effect of TLG’s posts on me made me crack); but it also was intended to carry with it the message that her sudden infatuation with ice sport IS going to end up getting her hurt. TLG said: “btw, how's the forecast for Utah this weekend? i'm antsy for the ice over there, too!” Give me a break—I’m glad that she wants to become an ice climber an all, but come on! After awhile these types of comments fail to convey enthusiasm and are not cute—such comments just become irritating. It’s like if someone took a one hour aid climbing class at a gym, and then the next day started asking for beta on Yosemite big wall routes. Does she have a right to make such silly comments, sure—but, for what it’s worth (which is nothing, I know—although there are others out there who feel similarly), such comments ARE irritating. A misogynists?! —whatever; where’d that come from? Do you even know what this word means (obviously not since, not only can you not spell the word, but since there’s nothing in my previous post to indicate such a thing.)? My point is NOT that I (or anyone else for that matter) is in some way a better person and/or climber than is she. I am blown away by her freakish enthusiasm—awesome. But a person certainly can take their enthusiasm too far(e.g., solo drytooling, etc., etc.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: BTW does anyone else think drydroooling on granite is difficult as fuck on slabs YUP! Did you know Tami Knight and Peter Croft did a winter ascent of Diedre on the Apron in Squamish? A lot of it involved climbing the 1" thick smear just out of reach of the crack. Yikes! [ 11-12-2002, 08:51 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Re: dry tooling is hard on tools... depending on what tools you have, it is also a good idea to change the picks. The cascade and evolution picks on the light machines are precision instruments. It would be a shame to dull them (or worse - break them) goofing around on non-ice/non-mixed route. Grivel makes a heavier pick (the goullotes or the mixte), and I do take the time to change them if I'm out doing something I think might hurt the beautiful work I've put in revising my picks making them "perfect". of course they also make a plastic pick, if you can convince VW to let you play (fat chance) Not all of us get climbing store discounts, and a good pick needs to last us a while That said, Be SAFE, I hope you get in some good toolin', have fun! and stay in the "designated" area, so as not to piss off the rock climbers and get us banned [ 11-12-2002, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: icegirl ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 TLG, you are hardly one to criticize other's spelling. Please spell that word that means "to jack off". Try to imagine yourself speaking or writing in that tone to one of your male friends. A little sensitive tonight, "Dry-tool" boy. [ 11-12-2002, 11:00 PM: Message edited by: E-rock ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfork Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by E-rock: Try to imagine yourself speaking or writing in that tone to one of your male friends. A little sensitive tonight, "Dry-tool" boy. e-rock, your remarks about lawgod obviously indicate that you hate all men. furthermore, it is evidence that you consider yourself superior to all others in your climbing ability. To not see this logic would be foolish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 You're right I do hate all men, but I don't climb, which is what make me "better" than climbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 The pictures are of Gorilla Bar M8 to the right of pandome falls at the toolshed. Gorilla bar actually is very steep. For how short it is you will lower off about 10 feet out from the wall. The bolts are close enough that you can dog your way up and set up a top rope. Icegirl- Drytooling does not have to be hard on the picks or the tools. If you start with good habits it doesn't actually dull the picks at all. if you are climbing verglass or very thin ice and trying to get sticks or course it will thrash the gear. But with good technique (gentle probing and hooking) you will not damage the gear. dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by forrest_m: i apologize in advance for posting something on topic: climbing at the toolshed All right! Where the heck is that at Gorilla Bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgod: I know we's all thinking the same thing here, let me be the first to say it: Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!! It's great that you want to take up ice climbing this season--I'm happy for you, but as you've said right here on this board, your total experience is climbing some POS grey low angle ice (aka O-rock)--a whole 400 freaking feet--and doing some ice bouldering. Oh yeah, and that super easy, I-could-climb-it-with-my-eyes-closed, fake wall at Cascade Crags. That said, fucking stop acting like you know what the fuck you're talking about! Listen, you ain't no ice climber yet! You haven't even had a taste of real ice yet. As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now, let me tell you, be prepared to shit yo fucking pants when you finally get onto something worthy of being refered to as an ice climb. It's scary, and, frankly, you might even find that it's not for you. And look, fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc. Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing. Look, here's my advice to you if you want to be an ice climber: 1. Calm yo ass down. 2. Quit acting like you know wtf you're talking about (and save some bandwidth for the rest of us) 3. Keep practicing with Col. Spanker et al--great exp. for when you actually do try to FOLLOW your first REAL ice climb. 4. Quite trying to be super ice woman--again, too cool that you're taking up this hobby, but ice climbing is not one of those things that you can safely jump into as fast as it appears you're trying to do. Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us. This is now officially one of my favorite posts ever. Thank you LawGod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Some of you guys are like so much rain on thelawgoddess' parade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 btw, the photo of gorilla bar features daler, photo by tim matsui. dale, what are you doing reading cc.com? shouldn’t you be out enjoying those 361 days of sunshine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blight Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 "btw, the photo of gorilla bar features daler" if that's DR, he must have borrowed that coat, pants, crampons, boots, tools, and gloves because he doesn't own any of that gear. it looks like he must have had plastic surgery too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by snoboy: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: BTW does anyone else think drydroooling on granite is difficult as fuck on slabs YUP! Did you know Tami Knight and Peter Croft did a winter ascent of Diedre on the Apron in Squamish? A lot of it involved climbing the 1" thick smear just out of reach of the crack. Yikes! The FA of the winter ascent of Diedre was by Humphrey and Funk in 1971, pre- droopped picks and pre-Choinard stuff. They had old skool long, positive-clearance ice axes and corkscrew style ice screws, maybe a Warthog or two?. Snoboy maybe you are thinking about the U Wall Drool which was done first by Croft and Knight? I know they did Diedre too but it was like the 3rd or 4th ice ascent.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 NEW CONTEST: Estimate the degree of camera tilt in Tim Matsuis photo. Or does that bush really grow horizontal like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Snoboy maybe you are thinking about the U Wall Drool which was done first by Croft and Knight? I know they did Diedre too but it was like the 3rd or 4th ice ascent.... I saw on the active topics that you'd quoted me and I thought to myself, " Uh-oh, I am about to be schooled " BUT, did I say "FA??" Just that that one sticks in my memory coz Tami wrote it up in some book somewhere. [ 11-13-2002, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: snoboy ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Yeah its in Bruce's anthology. She wrote it up for the Avalanche Echoes if I recall correctly I just thought you were making it sound like they were the first and all. I think Funk and Humphrey musta had balls of plutonium for that one. They were a couple of years and an era of gear ahead of their time. I heard from Don that on the 2nd ascent a BOOT AXE BELAY was actually used as the only possible belay technique on the crux pitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 13, 2002 Author Share Posted November 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Some of you guys are like so much rain on thelawgoddess' parade. no shit. makes me want to give up ice climbing altogether. and i've barely even started. right now i don't want to be on this board anymore. some of you are supportive and even share my enthusiasm; but others of you are just mean-spirited assholes. do you really like to make girls cry? i hope you're happy with your attitudes and that the shit you say and support makes you feel like bigger men. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 so send Musashi with 8 inch heel spurs and Spectres duct taped to your hands if thats what floats your boat. But remember the important saying of DOA and Mark Twight, namely that Talk -Action = 0 and when you talk up something there is a corresponding expectation of action which can backfire on you later on. also remember anna's near accident and how it is possible that too much encouragement from the Net may have made her think she knew more than she did and contributed to the incident in question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 and PAGE TOP MOFOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 All kinds of unfriendly spray. Everyone seems to blame it on me these days. But alas I am not guilty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts