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drytooling at exit 38


thelawgoddess

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quote:

Originally posted by iain:

nothing wrong with ice climbing but why people seek out dry tooling is beyond me. Sure use it if the route warrants, but to do it for entertainment?
[Confused]

I could see it as good training if you are at the level of getting into serious mixed or alpine routes. But I see your point, Iain, if you are just starting out. Granted, anything that would help build the muscles and balance inherent to ice climbing is good.

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I don't see the allure of dry tooling or even of ice climbing but there is certainly no shortage of cliffs available for TRing. Lawgoddess, give GregW a call and check out the rocks around Anderson Creek off of hwy 2. The write up a trip report for us to read. Better yet spend time in the gym getting in shape for rock!

 

PP

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TLGess,

 

There is no reason why you should give up something you've just begun, just b/c some people think you should chill out a bit. If you look a little more closely behind The Law God's post (albeit a little tact-less), you might see that he's trying to tame the ego a little, and show you that ice climbing can be unpredictable. It's great to be VERY enthusiastic, but you can also have some negative consequences when you've got such a gung-ho attitude and aren't thinking about the reality of it. I'm sure you'll be a kick-ass ice climber, just be PATIENT and start easy to not get in over your head!! [Wink]

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quote:

Originally posted by AA:

and start easy to not get in over your head!!
[Wink]

gawd which is so easy to do. I've never gone from laid-back cruisin' to sheer terror faster than when on ice! [Eek!] guess it's mainly because I find downclimbing out of sketchy thin stuff nervewracking.

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modern mixed (sport) climbing and real alpine mixed terrain have very little in common. Scratching choss at 38 may prepare you for Vail, but you are wasted if your goal is something like the Emperor Face, Colonial, Graybeard, etc.

[big Drink]

 

[ 11-13-2002, 11:35 AM: Message edited by: Mr. Natural ]

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I know we's all thinking the same thing here, let me be the first to say it:

 

Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!!

 

Ok let's analyze this spray posting. I have nothing against either one of these sprayers.

 

It's great that you want to take up ice climbing this season--I'm happy for you, but as you've said right here on this board, your total experience is climbing some POS grey low angle ice (aka O-rock)--a whole 400 freaking feet--and doing some ice bouldering.

Kind of harsh but translated as you have not actually climbed any water ice yet. But you are psyched. We all are since this dreary season is upon us.

 

Oh yeah, and that super easy, I-could-climb-it-with-my-eyes-closed, fake wall at Cascade Crags.

I don't think the drytool wall there is easy. However I must admit that the fake foam wall is pretty easy. It does little to prepare for the real surroundings of waterfall ice climbing.

 

That said, fucking stop acting like you know what the fuck you're talking about!

I think lawgod has a stick in his anus on this one.

 

Listen, you ain't no ice climber yet! You haven't even had a taste of real ice yet.

I guess you are not an ice climber until you free solo WI4. Stick in anus.

 

As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now, let me tell you, be prepared to shit yo fucking pants when you finally get onto something worthy of being refered to as an ice climb. It's scary, and, frankly, you might even find that it's not for you.

It is scary when the water is not frozen and runs down beneath your clothes, the screws bottom out or when the ice is falling apart. It is also scary when you wrench with all your might on -15 degree ice and still can't get a screw to budge. It's usually pretty cold out too.

 

And look, fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc.

I think soloing is not a great idea on any real big blue ice which Washington has little of. But if you must become one of the dumb ones I use your body for a doormat at the base of a climb when necessary.

 

Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing. Look, here's my advice to you if you want to be an ice climber:

 

1. Calm yo ass down.

Umm yeah.. I'll pass on that one.

 

2. Quit acting like you know wtf you're talking about (and save some bandwidth for the rest of us)

Well at least admit you don't know shit and then drive on.

 

3. Keep practicing with Col. Spanker et al--great exp. for when you actually do try to FOLLOW your first REAL ice climb.

Rumor has it that you don't do much leading on rock as it is. Get with a mental training program and start trad climbing. On the flip side there are complete mountain routes thousands of feet long that never exceed 60 degrees that I would call technical. Are these real routes?

 

4. Quite trying to be super ice woman--again, too cool that you're taking up this hobby, but ice climbing is not one of those things that you can safely jump into as fast as it appears you're trying to do.

Anyone can SAFELY ice climb if they had say a solid leader to drag them around. But yes it can be a humbling desire. Keep it real.

 

Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us.

If you die bummer. If you die soloing then I don't give a shit.

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