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corvallisclimb

[TR] Menagerie Wilderness - 3/11/2005

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Rooster(5.6)Then the southest corner on the hen(5.9), amazing moves, and a cool slab finish,well protected! Overhanging is chicken- rawhide(5.8). Really fun and exposed. Like owl rock-desert southwest, super classic.

More obscure stuff, whereby caught in the dark. Tyler pulled aid off an old 1/4 inch stub, to reach the top and rap anchor-old rusted out I-bolt.

Don't go there, oregon has no adventure climbing.

tongue.gifwave.gif

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Maybe this is a stupid question, but is the "backroad" open already (FS 855 or something?) or did you guys hike up from the highway?

Nice pics.

thnx.

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Hey how was the rap anchor looking on top of Rawhide? I was just up there today but didn't climb. I would like to go back soon. How runout were the routes? What gear did you use? I found three old bolts on top of the Possum no hangers are these 1/4 in?

443817-Smallchickenrock.JPG.77085660ce209a893e382ad0b75cb9ae.JPG

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kingsmm: all of the anchors are pretty old and rusted, most with old hangers. the routes generally seem to be rather run out with older bolts all placed from lead stance. rawhide is a wild climb with intimidating exposure at the crux.

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It's making me homesick! Never made it up last year but will spend a few nights up there this year for sure.

The anchors in the menagerie are mostly 1/2 self drilling shells that take a 3/8 cap screw. Sorry but that's what i was taught by my mentor. In there behalf I can tell you i took a solo 44' fall factor 2 on a single shell bolt which resulted in busted ribs, a knot that had to be cut out, and the ability to not make that stupid mistake again....so i turst them in good rock. that being said there is plenty of bad rock in the menagerie but good stuff too, that is where you get to enjoy the adventure leave a bit of a saftey valve, don't be afraid to downclimb and practice your judgement. there are older 1/4 inchers around and everyone of them should be replaced...feel free. My last couple routes sport 3/8 x 3" rawls (see you can learn as you get older)but just try and hand drill more than 4 or 5 of them a day. I might as well plug Greg Ortons up coming guide... It is said to be at the printers and will include the menagerie, wolf rock etc. with photos, topos and maps. it was a hard decision to out the place again (last published in dodges guide 1975) but I want future climbers to also share in the great times I enjoyed there over many years. Please treat the menagerie with respect, climb softly and use and cover your head. see you up there this summer. Jim

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CC.com has switched over to the new formatting style that will go with the 74" monitors available this spring.

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"I might as well plug Greg Ortons up coming guide... It is said to be at the printers"

That is great news! The first ed. was excellent IMHO and looking forward to checking out the expanded version.

 

I also read that that "Oregon Scrambles" (or something) guidebook is coming out this April. Nothing technical in it but still interesting to see a book on Oregon summits.

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