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[TR] Lane Peak- Zipper 3/6/2005


MRiley

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Climb: Lane Peak-Zipper

 

Date of Climb: 3/6/2005

 

Trip Report:

Sunday was clear and warm, but cold enough over night to make for some firm snow as we trudged up the debri cone leading to the route. We climbed into the Zipper and stopped at a small rock step about 30 meters into the route. We set a belay to the right of the step using a cam and nuts in some clean cracks. The step was easily climbed on the right by hooking an ice tool into gaps between rocks on the step. Another 90 meters of firm snow led to an imposing rock step. The step consists of two boulders stacked on top of each other. The lower boulder was climbed on the right, then crossed to the left side of the step and into a narrow cleft between the rock wall and the upper boulder. The rock wall provided some nice edges for crampon points and a tool hooked into snow and rubble above the boulder and between the boulder and the wall gave a firm hand hold. Beyond the second rock step, we found a thin layer of consolidated snow over ice. The ice was solid and we were on front points for the upper portion of the climb. We topped out the route at noon and took a break in warm sun, then proceeded to the summit. The scramble route to the summit had no snow except for one small patch just below the summit.

 

Gear Notes:

We took four pickets, one #2 Camalot, and a set of nuts. We used all of this gear, but did not feel that we should have brought more. We used single ice tools instead of ice axes as they hook rocks better.

 

Approach Notes:

There is little snow in the forest below the road to Reflection Lakes. The snow in the meadows at Tatoosh Creek was firm and we did little post holing. My partner used snow shoes, but I did not have a problem without them.

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Nice job! We were the party of thee that went up the Fly and met you at the top. We got a litte off route coming down, but Klenke woulda been right at home yellaf.gif

 

Did you happen to follow some old track through some very steep trees just east of the peak? rolleyes.gif

 

the correct route is to drop over this col around denman. Opposed to going directly down this drainage, which as you might have guessed is what I did.

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Nice job! We were the party of thee that went up the Fly and met you at the top. We got a litte off route coming down, but Klenke woulda been right at home yellaf.gif

 

Did you happen to follow some old track through some very steep trees just east of the peak? rolleyes.gif

 

the correct route is to drop over this col around denman. Opposed to going directly down this drainage, which as you might have guessed is what I did.

 

Why yes, I think we did just that. We encountered some very steep trees. thumbs_down.gif

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Dustin_B & Toast,

 

Nice. thumbs_up.gif For the top-out, did you ascend the west ridge of the summit pyramid directly from the notch at the top of The Fly, or did you go around and top out via the Southeast-side scramble route?

We scrambled up a gully just north of the ridge from the notch at the top of the fly. Then we came to another small notch on the north side and then a ~30-40 pitch lead to the ridge crest, another 3/4 of a pitch along the ridge lead to the summit. We went the same way you did. We actually had your trip report with us and it definitely came in handy a couple of times (thanks!) thumbs_up.gif. you were very close to the top, but we had much better weather.
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I was at the other end of Toast's rope (green wind shirt, bottom right first photo). Thanks for the pictures thumbs_up.gif. Did you have any bushwhacking issues getting down from Lane-Denman col? We certainly did!! wazzup.gif

 

We followed some old tracks and realized they were going in the wrong direction when they dropped into a steep gully. We moved left toward the NE side of Lane, dropped into a different gully that is typically full of snow, crossed that and kept moving down and left until we hit our approach tracks. There was a lot more bushwacking than usual with the low snow.

 

Mike

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We followed some old tracks and realized they were going in the wrong direction when they dropped into a steep gully. We moved left toward the NE side of Lane, dropped into a different gully that is typically full of snow, crossed that and kept moving down and left until we hit our approach tracks. There was a lot more bushwacking than usual with the low snow.

 

Mike

 

We went the other direction. We veered right, pranced around cliffy terrain and found a reasonable gully to descend after burrowing through some BW3. I thought it was us, but it sounds like you guys had a similar experience (fun bigdrink.gif)

 

Edited by mattp
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