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[TR] Mt. Hood- Leuthold Couloir 3/5/2005


scottk

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Climb: Mt. Hood-Leuthold Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 3/5/2005

 

Trip Report:

TomB, SteveR, NickC, TonyM and I climbed Leuthold Couloir on Saturday. We left at 4:00 AM from Timberline on a calm, balmy morning and made good time up the ski area and across to Illumination Rock. We roped up and headed across Reid Glacier. It was a tough slog across the glacier and up the lower part of the couloir due to soft snow and difficult post holing. Fortunately, another party of 2 was kind enough to set some steps up the couloir. The ice chunks were raining down, mostly small and harmless but with the occasional large chunk. A large book-sized rock almost wiped out Tom at one point.

 

As we reached the narrow part of the couloir we started to encounter hard water ice and put in a couple of screws for protection. We stopped protecting and just moved as fast as possible once we turned the corner into the tight part of the couloir. This part of the climb was mostly ice or thin snow on ice. The ice chunks were raining down but nothing very hazardous.

 

Once we were past the tight part it was just a long slog up the rest of the couloir. The weather started to change at this point, some high clouds and increasing wind. We traversed the ridge (fun and spectacular) and reached the summit shortly before 2:00.

 

We headed down the Pearly Gates through gathering clouds. Nick carried his skis the entire climb but didn’t put them on until below the Hogsback due to difficult snow conditions. The weather started to clear once we reached the 8,500 foot level. We reached the parking lot about 5:00, a total of 13 hours for the entire climb.

 

All in all, a varied climb with a great combination of challenge and scenery. The post-holing was hard work and slowed our progress significantly. It was nice to escape the crowds on the south side and experience a remoter part of the mountain.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe

Most of us used a single ice tool for security on the ice

Ice screws (used)

Pickets (not used)

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