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AT boots on Denali??


cave_monkey

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I'm slated for a mid-May to mid-June expedition up the West Buttress. I've invested a lot in my gear, making sure I won't get cold. My only shady spot is in footwear. (I know, its the last spot to have shady gear). I have some Scarpa Denali TT's that I bought this year, and plan on skinning up as much of the mountain as I can. Anyone have some feedback on the warmth of such a boot, and perhaps climbing comfort for extended climbs such as high camp to summit?? If I have to I'll buy and pack some Arctis Expe' and overboots, but I'm seriously out of money, so I'm hopeing my AT boots will be sufficient. Thanks

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Well, I have a pair of these up for auction.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT

 

Not warm enough for me. I bought a pair of the Millet Everest Boots. Hopefully will get to use them soon. (Too warm right now.) Supposedly up there with the top boots, no overboots\replacing with intuition liners necessary. You pay the price though. I got my pair for $450. PM if you want to know where.

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I used a pair of Dynafit TLT4 boots two years ago up there...I bought them a full size larger than my other ski boots and took out the insoles from 14k on up to have a little more wiggle room, used overboots from 17k on up. Thermofit liners in an AT boot shell are plenty warm for Denali, just make sure you have lots of room for your toes. You're probably already aware of the limitations of wearning an AT boot while climbing (lack of ankle flex makes french technique tough with crampons), but it never bugged me, except for the hill at squirrel point and the fixed-line headwall, I was flat footing it just fine..the TLT4 boots are lower and softer than the Denali TT though.

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Unles you're planning on skiing the Messner or Orient Express those boots are overkill. You can easily skin to 11 and could possible skin from 11500- 13000 and 13500 to 14000 - but most parties leave skis at 11. I've carried them from 11 to 14 b/c the skiing at 14 is awesome... but have never taken them to a higher camp. The Denali's will be warm enough -- but come summit day you'll be hating life (remember - 1 lb on the foot is equal to 10 lbs on the back). If you're dying to ski I suggest the Lasers which are a bit lighter and easier for walking -- however if your main goal is to climb the mountain get some Inverno's and accept the fact that it sucks to ski in plastic boots. One thing to note -- if you're Scarpa's fit you and you're comfy in them stick with a Scarpa mountianeering boot. They fit the same way.

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  • 2 months later...

I like my Lasers, but I love my Denali's even more.

I've found myself tired up on Mcinley and getting sloppy with footing sometimes, and was very glad I had that extra buckle for support.

In terms of warmth, I bought mine half a size bigger so I can sport wool sox as I have done the last couple of winters in Utah's back country, but that is another conversation.

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