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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   12/08/21

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Marko

first winter ascent Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter

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very cool, and asterisk-free, ascent. how were snow and ice conditions back there? anything dripping down near backbone ridge?

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I'll scan a couple more as soon as I have time.

 

The snow and ice conditions are excellent in general. Lot's of ice, lot's of neve, and very little unconsolidated snow. The NE face didn't seem quite continuous, but the NW Face Couloir looks to be in better shape than I've ever seen it before.

 

I don't know about Backbone Ridge, but Ade and Alastair should have a good idea, since they were up at Colchuck Lake.

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hey Colin and Mark! Nice job guys.

I'm still 0 for 5 this winter so it was good to see you guys and Pete/Rolf's team getting the luck!

 

Bear's DirNFace would be a proud line in winter

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Here's another photo:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9557&sort=1&cat=504&page=1

 

And another:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9558&sort=1&cat=504&page=1

 

Sorry the scans suck so bad.

 

I was 0 for 4 this winter before this past weekend - seems mother nature is finally producing some decent conditions and weather though.

 

Bear's N Butt would indeed be a proud line in winter, even if just the classic Beckey way (upper half). I still think that climbing the North Face of Triumph in winter would be a fantastic thing.

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yeah. getting into triumph would be really hard in the winter, esp not being able to see the face. it's been on my list for sure. Bear wouldn't be as ice-dependant as triumph, so i'd just shoot for clear and warm conditions like now

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Rolf and I just failed on Pyramid today. Got a few miles up the trail and realized it was just too warm for the project after I took off my poly pro and started to hike in just schoeller pants and no shirt.

 

Now I'm drunk. Shit.

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hey Colin and Mark! Nice job guys.

I'm still 0 for 5 this winter so it was good to see you guys and Pete/Rolf's team getting the luck!

 

Bear's DirNFace would be a proud line in winter

 

Heh, I'm not sure luck has anything to do with these guys succeeding.

 

Nice job guys, that's really fuggin awesome. I can't imagine attempting that, let alone pulling it off.

 

Seeing things like this makes me miss winter in the PNW even more frown.gif They mountains here are great,but aren't the cascades. bigdrink.gif

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Of course luck has something to do with these guys succeeding, luck plays a role in anyone succeeding in anything. the weather could've drastically turned, one of them could've forgotten a crucial piece of gear, etc...You could be the most skilled climber in the world and one little thing could stop you dead in your tracks. I'd say to get up something you need 3 things 1.)luck 2.)persistance 3.)the climbing ability for the route you are on. These guys had all 3, thus they succeeded.

 

Pete and Rolf, are you guys retarded for trying pyramid this weekend? Even I wasn't stupid enough to try and fail on the alpine this hot hot weekend.

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I was just saying I don't think luck has a lot to do with them succeeding when others fail. They checked the forecast carefully, planned well and pulled it off. They are badass and I love reading TRs like this. smile.gif

 

Also, I would argue forgetting a piece of gear isn't bad luck, but bad preperation.

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Thanks for the good words all. Layton's right though, we got lucky with the great weather, zero wind, and the great conditions. Last weekend was the only weekend we both could scam 4-5 days off and the weather complied.

 

How many times have we all arranged a trip way in advance and gone into the hills in spite of a shitty forecast and then gotten puked off the route? We definitely had luck on our side this time.

 

Speaking for myself, I'll take luck over skill 90% of the time.

 

Good luck to us all!

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Too Warm? I got frozen off of a project this weekend. 18 degrees and wind. Luck..............?I have attempted this route now some 14 times.At least I know its in now though! grin.gif

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There was good ice and neve conditions at 2000m in the Canadian Cascades this weekend. I was too wimpy to climb anything hard though.

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wayne, as you sleep on my couch tonight i am stealing your route.hhhahahaha.

 

Oh, and i did mean it when i said nice job on stuart. i'm glad you know what i meant - wasn't dissin' ya at'tall.

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Good job guys!

 

Marko... I was just thinkin' about you this weekend when I was romping around, amazed at the lack of snow. Actual thought that was going through my mind 24 hours ago...

 

"If those guys aren't out there ticking a few things off this winter, they're gonna be kicking themselves!"

 

Glad to hear you could sneak away for that long and still have a job to return to! Lucky bastard.

 

-kurt

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Hey Kurt! Definitely good to get away but now I'm paying for it at the old salt mine... Hope you got out to enjoy the good weather.

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