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TR - Pinnacle Peak - North Ridge - 2/20/05


Winter

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Jeff Alzner and I climber the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak yesterday. We poked around up at Mikey's on Saturday. We weren't hoping for much and found pretty bad conditions. Hye Mikey was barely touching down and looked in 5+ conditions with little protection. The other two lines weren't in shape either.

 

We hiked in on Sat. afternoon, took the Pinnacle Peak trail from the road and set up camp on the east side of the peak. After many safety breaks and a pint of scotch, we passed out. What a great day! The weather gods were smiling all weekend. Saturday was calm, sunny and beautiful.

 

We slept in. Brrrr. Got moving and traversed underneath the northeast face on 45-60 degree shit convered in 2-5 inches on unconsolidated snows. We charged into the middle of it without crampons or axes out, so we both had to stop midway in sans rope to pull out the axes. Uggh.

 

Once through the crap we traversed into the bowl under the north face and found the gully. No snow or ice. All rock. We climbed 2 pitches of very loose rock with almost zero pro to the saddle, took a right on an 8 inch ledge and then climbed up another gully with somewhat better rock. Once we actually got onto the North Ridge up high, the climbing was fantastic. Solid rock, some pro, great position and views. Lots of rock climbing in the plastics. Schweet.

 

Gear: 4 nuts, 1 cam, 4-5 slings and biners, 1 8mm 60 m rope, mountain axe and tool

 

Overall a great day. How the hell do you post this as a trip report?!

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