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Anna

I've been humbled

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This belongs in "spray" now, I have allowed myself to do what I hate, straying off topic. Sorry to all, I will try to be more disciplined in the future posts. [Eek!][Frown]

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quote:

Originally posted by Mr. Chips:

Sorry to all, I will try to be more disciplined in the future posts.
[Eek!][Frown]

You gonna wear a gimp mask or what? [Eek!]

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I see our Stupid freind TRASK is up to antics again, Oh Trask...

 

Dru, are you still riding that high horse you rode in on. You guys are so clever.

 

Buy the way Trask, why do you call yourself the Chicken Fucker? Froidian slip? Or did you type out a recent day dream by accident again? Remember, keep those thoughts private. Crazy Character.

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OK I just read this WHOLE damn thing and I'm gonna pipe up before it gets removed again.

 

Main point: People bashed the meanie naysayers, and the bashers had a point. Not because their meanieness was mean though, but because their meanieness rendered their messages negatively effectual. After the first couple of jerky posts, Anna came back on and sounded emboldened! When Chips toned down his act it appeared much more effectual. Perhaps this is a lesson for the posters of this board to heed?

 

Next point: Climbing is dangerous! When someone comes online and posts about how they almost killed themselves, there are a lot of ways to respond, but in my opinion, gushing about how climbing is so great, and encouraging that person to go right back out there, is NOT the thing to do. It's ANNA's business. She knows what's up with climbing and what she does and doesn't like about it. Let her decide. One really shouldn't be encouraging someone to participate in this inherently risky behavior.

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Oh well, I see many posts added since I made my post, including Anna's, which addresses my concern about recklessness. Maybe I was wrong. I dunno. [Confused] But I do believe in introspection when you scare the hell out of yourself. Not a knee-jerk "get back on the horse" response. Listen to those who say they were trying to get through to you but you weren't listening. Is it possible, even a little bit, that they were doing so but you chose to hear what what you heard and not to hear what you didn't want to hear? I say this not to criticise, but with humility, as one who has had to do just that myself in the past.

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Damn, ChucK, how come you were able to say what I was trying to say, so much better than me? What you said! [big Drink]

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Anna before your next lead you should drop shrooms and only take gear with pink webbing so you look cool [Cool]

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minor points: climbing related advice

 

Early on someone mentioned Vantage as a good place for the newbie gear leader to learn. No! This is not good advice. Vantage is steep. Thus, finding enough good stances to concentrate on the new task of placing gear is not easy to do. Not to mention that the rock quality is dubious.

 

People talked about climbing with internet blind dates. Some are willing, some aren't. Let me tell you this, if you post more TR's however insignificant (they don't all have to be as good as Uncle Tricky's) you clue people in to your abilities, and makes these blind dates less blind.

 

Outer Space is not a good climb to bring climbers of unknown (or known lesser) abilities. The crux is a traverse people!! And the pitch after has a long runout traverse. Also the original start and the Remorse start have unprotected traverses. Plus if someone fell at the crux, there is not a good way to get back on the climb even if they weren't hurt.

 

Rapping versus lowering from the non-anchor. Highlander hit it best. Downclimb, trying not to weight the anchor. Rapping would appear a poor choice since she would have to untie from the rope to set up the rap, then she wouldn't even have the lower pieces to protect her. Lowering is not going to make that big a difference on the placements, bodyweight vs. 1.67*bodyweight. You'd have to be pretty lucky/unlucky to find an anchor where one of those would hold and the other wouldn't.

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quote:

Originally posted by RobBob:

Dru,

How's that Hello Kitty endorsement package shaping up?
[big Grin]

I keep loking for me flannel action suit in the mail.

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quote:

Originally posted by RobBob:

But I do believe in introspection when you scare the hell out of yourself. Not a knee-jerk "get back on the horse" response.

Agreed, Anna, if you're still there, as well as others who have working in incident respose - I believe a post-response debrief is pretty typical - where things went right, where things went wrong. So think of this as a very rough debrief. The element here is to take whatever lessons learned and apply the next time. So running roughshod back onto the horse (or whatever mixed metaphors) is not very wise. I've tried the same in the past, and, for me, at least, found that I coped with the bad experience by either trying to suppress it or compartmentalize it out, neither of which addressed the root cause of the problem/experience in the first place, and allowed it to fester.

 

Oh, yeah, remember we do this shit for fun.

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quote:

there is not a good way to get back on the climb even if they weren't hurt.

they are called prussiks:rolleyes: ...and my strategy is not falling...and so far it has worked out quite nicely... [big Grin] as for the runout pitch, it is like 5.5 with huge chicken heads... if you cant runout 5.5, you shouldn't be on that climb... and it isn't THAT runout...mabe 30-40 feet... if you know where to look for pro...i got a nut in before the traverse and then a 'lott when i got to the dihedral... no biggie... [sleep] darrington has 5x the runout...(60 meters) [Eek!][big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by glacier:

Oh, yeah, remember we do this shit for fun.

Wait, it's not just a big ego-stroking, spray-boosting suffer-fest? Shit! [Eek!]

 

FOR SALE:

1 - 9.7mm x 60m rope, almost new, in Metolius rope bag

12 - wiregate quickdraws, almost new

1 - Petzl Gri-gri w/locking biner

1 - Arc'teryx Vapor harness, size L

Assorted slings and biners

1 - chalk bag + 1 pound Metolius Super Chalk

1 - Arc'teryx Khamsin 50 backpack

1 - TNF 600 fill DryLoft down jacket w/hood

5 pairs La Sportiva climbing shoes, size 40.5

1 - Metolius crash pad (small)

Assorted climbing guide books

1 - Subaru Legacy L wagon (2002)

 

PM or e-mail your offer!

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I had a similar incident occur at Vantage. Although I had been leading trad for a couple of years, in this case I was over my head. I got on a route that I thought was 5.8, but was really 5.10. I got to the crux and kept thrashing it. I took three short falls on a 1 inch cam before I decided to give up and be lowered. As soon as I weighted the rope again, the cam pulled out and I fell about 25 ft. A big hex checked my fall and my feet missed hitting the deck by about 1 or 2 feet. My belayer had rope burns on his hand because I fell just as he was taking in rope. It would have been a pair of broken ankles for sure had the hex not held.

 

Surprisingly, the hex came out easily when I climbed up to retreive it. My omnidirectional anchor, on the other hand, wedged pretty good.

 

Lessons learned:

 

1) If you fall on a piece, check it to make sure it hasn't walked.

2) Get a guide book and know exactly what you are getting into. Don't lead trad at your limit.

3) Make sure your belayer is paying attention and wears belay gloves.

 

I can top rope 5.10, sport lead 5.9, but have no business leading trad on anything over 5.7-5.8.

 

--Brian

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shed-head: Seriously though...what do people think of rapping vs lowering off a questionable anchor? It seems to me rapping would be the way to go but what do I know???

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

how about... neither? hellno3d.gif

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for a more worthwhile reply: I can lead sport face routes in the 5.10 range, but I don't think it really makes much difference on my trad climbing range, since it seems almost a different skill set altogether.

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Funny, I was wondering when this was going to get dragged up again. Yikes.

 

On leading limits:

 

I lead up to 10+ trad, TR 11-, and lead 10- on bolts. Is that fucked up or what??

 

I think it is OK to lead trad to yyour limit, if you know what your limit is, and you are a competent trad leader.

 

Blah blah blah.

 

Good thing we got rid of Anna hey?? madgo_ron.gif She was a real hazard to herself, and this board :rolleyes:

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