russki82 Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 well comrades Northwesterners, looks like the East Coast ice season has begun. The Black Dike on Cannon has already been done; and YES i'm going climbing this weekend...finally! this rocks, we've had the earliest start to the season I can remember. And the funny thing is, there's no warm spell in sight...looks like we just had a month-long head start to the winter and that's it. he're the Dike on the 25th... http://neice.com/2002/Photos/CoverPhotos/dikecoveroct2002.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 The flume looks cool. Is that manmade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 Mike's post gives me an idea. It was pretty cold at my house this morning. Maybe we could set up a hose at the top of the GNS for a few weeks this winter. I've got 90' that I'm not using this winter. Anyone else want to contribute? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 sweet, pretty cold here also, freezing temps in Seattle last night! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 NICE! first time in a long time I've been envious of someone living on the (l)east coast So Greg, call me a gumby...or maybe it's just that I haven't had my first cuppa coffee yet.... but GNS? define please? and maybe I'll donate a hose or two to the cause... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 Great Northern Slab at Index (wasn't altogether serious but wouldn't that be cool?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 awww, c'mon, think big, man! sounds like a great idea to me! then again, for the cost of the hose we'd need to get up there we could probably just buy a few plane tix to Ouray... or New Hampshire! [ 10-30-2002, 09:04 AM: Message edited by: sayjay ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Great Northern Slab at Index (wasn't altogether serious but wouldn't that be cool?) Depends if you think WI 2 is cool or not... Personaly I'd prefer to farm ice on the steeper wall. Too bad it will fall down evry afternoon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sayjay: awww, c'mon, think big, man! sounds like a great idea to me! then again, for the cost of the hose we'd need to get up there we could probably just buy a few plane tix to Ouray... or New Hampshire! Good point. When do we go? Oh, um, can you teach me how to ice climb before we go? Besides a complete lack of skill, I am totally ready to go. Greg W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Great Northern Slab at Index (wasn't altogether serious but wouldn't that be cool?) Depends if you think WI 2 is cool or not... Since that would be a good grade for me to start learning at, I think it's great (plus it's 15 minutes from my house). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Good point. When do we? Oh, um, can you teach me how to? Besides a complete lack of skill, I am totally ready to go. Greg W i might know some ladies that can help there ole buddy!!!! [ 10-30-2002, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Good point. When do we? Oh, um, can you teach me how to? Besides a complete lack of skill, I am totally ready to go. Greg W i might know some ladies that can help there ole buddy!!!! Duh, why do you think I was asking Sarah for some "instruction"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Great Northern Slab at Index (wasn't altogether serious but wouldn't that be cool?) Depends if you think WI 2 is cool or not... Personaly I'd prefer to farm ice on the steeper wall. Too bad it will fall down evry afternoon... Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. ???? Ditto: ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. ???? Unless it is VERY thin or actively falling down, water ice requires very little in the way of skill or technique to succeed, and most will be able to bumble their way through it. But when it is truely vertical it is a completely different animal and you will need to have your shit dialed wire-tight. Placing gear on sustained vertical ice (especially if it is of less than ideal quality,) is one of the most demanding things that I have ever done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Good point. When do we? Oh, um, can you teach me how to? Besides a complete lack of skill, I am totally ready to go. Greg W i might know some ladies that can help there ole buddy!!!! Duh, why do you think I was asking Sarah for some "instruction"? hmmmm, only two problems with this plan 1) sounds like we probably have about the same amount of ice climbing experience 2) i'm married sorry! maybe you oughtta try icegirl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Unless it is VERY thin or actively falling down, water ice requires very little in the way of skill or technique to succeed, and most will be able to bumble their way through it. But when it is truely vertical it is a completely different animal and you will need to have your shit dialed wire-tight. Placing gear on sustained vertical ice (especially if it is of less than ideal quality,) is one of the most demanding things that I have ever done. Mitch, you are right that the demands increase exponentially as ice approches vertical but I think you overstate your case. Frozen waterfalls are beautiful and I find the climbing plenty enjoyable even on "low angle" falls suitable for a bumbly like me and I believe many moderately experienced climbers find sufficient challenge when the overall angle exceeds, say, 70 degrees -- even if they could thrash their way up someting "truly vertical." You are in a fairly elite group of you don't consider anything less than that to be worthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russki82 Posted October 31, 2002 Author Share Posted October 31, 2002 [/qb]hmmmm, only two problems with this plan 1) sounds like we probably have about the same amount of ice climbing experience 2) i'm married sorry! maybe you oughtta try icegirl? [/QB] aw dang! and I thought this was a singles dating site... climbing? huh? what's that? boy did I stumble into the wrong place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by russki82: aw dang! and I thought this was a singles dating site... climbing? huh? what's that? boy did I stumble into the wrong place You must have been looking for the Seattle Mountaineers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: Mitch, you are right that the demands increase exponentially as ice approches vertical but I think you overstate your case. Frozen waterfalls are beautiful and I find the climbing plenty enjoyable even on "low angle" falls suitable for a bumbly like me and I believe many moderately experienced climbers find sufficient challenge when the overall angle exceeds, say, 70 degrees -- even if they could thrash their way up someting "truly vertical." You are in a fairly elite group of you don't consider anything less than that to be worthy. Just a statement of my personal tastes in ice climbing. Nothing against moderates or "bumbling" up low angle stuff. I have spent a lot of time doing just that and reveled in every moment of it. But it just don't put lead in my pencil no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. Let's see here... Water ice can only be vertical, and WI2 means Water Ice 2, so... WI2 is vertical. Huh? Your so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 Holy moley, Snoboy. I didn't know it was so complicated. How in the world do you get on the right bus to get home from school? Do they pin your bus number on your collar, or what? Think outside the box, just a little. You don't even need axes to get up WI2. Try it on top-rope. It's fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: quote:Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Water ice ain't water ice until it's vertical. ???? Unless it is VERY thin or actively falling down, water ice requires very little in the way of skill or technique to succeed, and most will be able to bumble their way through it. But when it is truely vertical it is a completely different animal and you will need to have your shit dialed wire-tight. Placing gear on sustained vertical ice (especially if it is of less than ideal quality,) is one of the most demanding things that I have ever done. "Vertical Ice, when approached from overhanging rock, feels easy - every placvement gives a good shake. Thus the current trend to downrate many of yesterday's WI6 testpieces to modern WI5" - Waterfall Ice 4th edition, Josephson and Talbot, Rocky Mountain Books 2002. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sayjay: 1) sounds like we probably have about the same amount of ice climbing experience 2) i'm married 1) Flail Away!!! 2) Me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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