jordop Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 Climb: Mt. Harvey-Lean Cuisine Date of Climb: 2/13/2005 Trip Report: PaulB and I climbed the N face of Harvey today. Conditions are extremely thin right now, there was about 4" of snow on the boulders at the base. A couple of Swiss guys we passed on the logging road seemed almost insulted that we would even try it in such conditions We hummed and hawed at the base. Wasn't a lot of snow but it really didn't look that steep so we started up and found lottsa bits of snow over rock, but also some nice bits of genuine ICE We busted out the rope for two pitches, the first being a half-pitch of 6" wide runnel of ice about an inch thick over rock. One shitty half-driven screw for pro. Lottsa snow over rock sketchiness Another bit of ice which we simuled, then the endless slog to the summit ridge and a bit more of simuled ice. Trail down was snowshoed up nice. Total rt was 9 hrs. Very nice and likely a lot more challenging than usual right now with the low snow (no more than two feet on the summit. Most years I have been up there there is about 3 meters) Gear Notes: Took 2 pins, 2 screws and 2 pickets. Used it all. 2" stubby screws woulda been nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 14, 2005 Author Share Posted February 14, 2005 Ice low down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 14, 2005 Author Share Posted February 14, 2005 Paul topping out after emerging from the sketchy ice runnel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 A noted local ice guidebook author told me there was never anything anyone would rope up for on the NF ramp of Harvey You must have staged those pictures, in other words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 14, 2005 Author Share Posted February 14, 2005 A noted local ice guidebook author told me there was never anything anyone would rope up for on the NF ramp of Harvey You must have staged those pictures, in other words. Hey fuck you punk, in most years its a goddamn snowstroll. Try it right now with 4" of snow and 1" of ice over rock and its another matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 i climbed it once with 1" ice and 3" running water over 6" of air and then rock, does that count? even GE belayed the pitch low down when he climbed it with Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 Nice Work Boys How was the snow conditions on the way down, would you have needed snow shoes on the way up or was it fairly consolidated. Thanks j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 16, 2005 Author Share Posted February 16, 2005 Trail is fine w/o misery shoes, summit ridge is two feet of snow with snags and rocks everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 nice tr... paulb's got the same boots as me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted February 17, 2005 Author Share Posted February 17, 2005 Secret Scarpa sale you missed becuasse of jet lag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 White pants before Easter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 hahahah Jordan is a poopy dirty poo face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulB Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 The sketchy ice runnel: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 inspired by this TR (and unexpectedly freed up Saturday to go climbing cuz my wife's friend came down sick, so her travel plans fell thru), Andrew Rennie and I fired up the Ramp today. it had been a very long time since i was up there in the winter, and i'd kinda forgotten how cool the route is: not steep/hard, but with "steppy" bits here and there - plus we diverted onto the side-slabs to climb every piece of water-ice we could get at. and all the time the huge N Face of Harvey is looming above on the right. and the sea for a backdrop. plus close to town. note to self: get back again soon... tks guys. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 how did the gut and the pups butt look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 how did the gut and the pups butt look? both pretty lean - this might be a good thing for the buttress, but not for the gut. and "lean" does not mean no snow - there'd be plenty enuf to turn your hands into little blocks of senseless fumblehood. not to mention stone as cold as the heart of a hooker... i dare say it'll be a while till someone climbs THIS sucker in the winter. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 ...but i guess the huge unclimbed ice flow pouring off the summit down the nw face into the gut wasn't formed up either then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 ...but i guess the huge unclimbed ice flow pouring off the summit down the nw face into the gut wasn't formed up either then nary a drop to be seen. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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