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[TR] Hood- Flying Buttress 2/11/2005


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Climb: Hood-Flying Buttress


Date of Climb: 2/11/2005


Trip Report:

I slept in the parking lot of Timberline Thursday night, hoping for good weather and conditions to do the Devils Kitchen Headwall-1c. The winds were pretty strong, and buffetted me to sleep nicely in the back of the truck.

I awoke at 4a.m. to heavy winds, and a distant memory of being raped on mt. shasta the week prior. So I slept till 8a.m. when the winds began to die, and then began skinning up the mountain to do any route that would have a sleep induced slacker like me.

To my amazement, the devils kitchen looked fairly solid at about 10a.m., but I wasn't willing to risk 1c, which had been exposed to the sun for those few critical hours. So I flung myself at the Flying Buttress-1E, and encountered GREAT climbing. The start was the crux, with steep water ice that was soft enough to take my picks a few inches deep. That gave way to more steep ice covered in powder snow, and then a final rime headwall to top out on wy-east. For you yocum seekers, the rime was bonded stronger than I have ever seen it, making hooking a very solid proposition.

Once I topped out, the realization set in that Avy danger was High, and continuing onto the summit was out of the question. So I decended wy-east sticking to rock ribs for safety. Traversing back to the south-side I encountered quite a few crevasses thinly bridged, and very open.

It was a great route, and I am glad I went all the way up there for just 500 feet of fun ice. Oh, and 2,500 feet of sweet skiing down to the truck on a blue-bird day.







Gear Notes:

1 tool, poons, compass, nutter bars, not much else


Approach Notes:

skiing is such a sweet sweet thing.

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Nice work up there dude... I wish I had seen you working 1e... After bailing on Reid I thought briefly about trying one of the DK HW routes, but decided against cause I wasn't exactly sure what routes went where, etc. You had good ski conditions? Coming down from Ill saddle I kept breaking through the surface crust. Anyway, great TR and photos. thumbs_up.gif

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