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Dry-Tooling questions


billcoe

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I've hacked ice with tools, but never rock. It seems to me that the potential to permanently trash the rock is very high. I see people top-rope climbing with dry-tools on the very routes I enjoy rock climbing, and it seems to be gathering critical mass and grow in size.

 

I'm wondering what people's opinions are on this? Harmful or not? Should be done, or not?

 

What do you think?

 

 

Bill

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out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes

 

Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ?

 

Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking?

 

Hey NY! Do you have beta for those routes? Location/directions? Rating?

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If it’s in the guidebook I stay off it even if the guidebook says avoid the route because its crap.

 

If it isn't in the guidebook but looks like someone might want to climb it at some point I stay off it. Never hurts to get a second opinion when deciding this.

 

If it isn't in the guidebook and is choss then I climb it.

 

If you want a guide to rocky or other spots in PDX let me know. Or better: come on out!

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It is acceptable to dry-tool any route at Vantage, because the place is just a choss-pile anyway.

 

To demonstrate superior form, it is necessary to hack your way up (on top-rope) every route in the Feathers, and then hurl your tools and crampons at the inevitable gapers and etiquette police, while swearing violently how you were hardcore back when the gapers were just an embarassing swelling in their daddies' pants.

 

If you can work up a little froth and foam, then you're dry tooling in fine form.

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out here we almost specifically drytool on DT routes

 

Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ?

 

Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking?

 

California, perhaps Nevada or southern Oregon. I haven't asked around much, but read somewhere about Lee Vining Canyon in the off-season (when there's no ice).

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