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Extra Rap Cord


tlinn

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I have a lightweight 9.2mm rope that I like to climb on in the alpine. What kind of static line should I buy in case I need to retreat off a climb. I'm thinking of safety but also weight. Also, is there a problem rapping off of two ropes that are of very different thicknesses?

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6mm static works. You might want to make sure it is a bit longer than your dynamic rope (maybe 3m longer?). But you don't get anything for free; 6mm cord is super light, but it tangles horribly and feels a bit sketchy any way you rig it. I have often rapped on 8.5mm + 6mm tied together, and have not found it to be too terrible. Generally I rig a pussik to the 8.5mm rope from the anchor, so the first rapeller avoids any rope slippage. Then before I rap, I remove the prussik and then make sure the knot is on the 6mm side of the anchor, and not on the 8.5mm side. Then I use an extra biner and an autoblock back-up to make sure the rap is super controlled. A bit of extra tension on the thin cord seems to prevent rope slippage from the differential friction through the belay device.

 

I wouldn't recommend using an EDK to tie the two cords together. I've used double-fishermans and also rewoven figure 8 (with a backup knot), instead of the EDK. So, some care is recommended to avoid getting a stuck rope.

 

If there is a chance of rockfall nailing your rap cord, you might want to consider using a rap ring and a really fat knot. This way, if the skinny cord gets cut, the knot wedges in the rap ring and (theoretically) you don't fall.

 

There is a fancier system to rap on a single 8.5mm cord with a 6mm retrieval line, involving a carabiner. But, it means a carabiner will be pulled down with your retrieval line, with the extra potential for rockfall and rope stuckage. So, I've been reluctant use it in the alpine. YMMV.

 

I haven't used this 8.5mm + 6mm system when it is super icy, so I don't know how sketch it would be.

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I carry a 8.5 dynamic and 6mm static when I'm soloing and there is a lot of rappelling involved. I find that even a 6mm/10.5mm setup is easy to pull and tangles less than my double ropes. In scarier pulls, like when the rope might get caught up in shrubs or rubble, I actually leave the 6mm through the rap anchor and pull the thick rope. It's no different really than what supports you off a v-thread, but still scares me sometimes. Ropes come down like magic, though, If you pull the thin one, you have no ability to flip the knot around from a distance if it catches.

 

 

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