treknclime Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 OK...I remember seeing a post about some dry tooling up at the toolshed, and at E38. What about some other places? Road cuts, or ?? I keep reading about PDX's and their evening workouts...and I'm keen to find something similar up this way. I've got some ideas for stuff around Eatonville...or along 410, which I plan to check out soon. I'd like to flush out some other options. Anyone have some places they'd like to share?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Honestly anything that isn’t an established route or in a developed area is fair game. More specifically it would rude to assume that something is tool material just because it isn’t in the guidebook that it hasn’t or won’t be done… JosephH is a prime example of people finding new routes in areas that people thought were cleaned out and sending. Basically if it looks like choss reach for your tools. Things I would look for in your area: - good TR anchor options that you can access without having to lead the route. Preferable one can TR multiple lines off the same anchor. - Thin (pick size) cracks seem to be the best for people new to drytooling for pick placements. Hooking and camming can be frightening at first so starting out on routes that require a lot of that might be a bit much if not discouraging. - small positive edges… the more the merrier for foot placements. Unless you are driving monos you are going to do a lot of scratching on thin cracks searching for feet placements… edges alleviate this problem. - the longer the better. Ideally 30 m routes. - close to town. Driving 40 minutes for slightly better routes equals less climbing time. Honestly anything works… I “boulder”on a brick wall near my house. If you can find an out of the way concrete wall/bridge underpass/etc take your Bosch out and manufacture a route. I started on a bridge near my house but I’m moving soon so I am waiting to see where I buy before I finish it. Other good suspects include road cuts, old buildings, and local choss heaps everywhere. And finally: you could always move to PDX . Have fun J and where ever you go take mr. early retirement with you! He could use something to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 I'm in. there is that chossy place out on SR900... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 (edited) Heck...I heard about that one, but don't know where it is. Dave...pls post or PM me with the location...and a couple of evenings that work for ya. I'd meet up at least 1-2 nights a week on a regular basis, for a crazy fool-tool'in night. NOLSe...great tips, dude...and much appreciated. That'll get me and that slacker roll'in for some great snizz'in on the rock. Edited January 25, 2005 by treknclime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyang Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 At the risk of hijacking the thread (sorry), I have to admit that I've been reading the dry-tooling notes with more than a little interest (and wish I still lived in pdx). However, I have to ask - what is it about dry-tooling that makes it more attractive than free-climbing ? Is it just that sometimes in winter it's just too wet / cold / slimy for 'regular' climbing ? (sorry for the complete newbie questions - I have only just started to get into technical rock or ice) In any case, it sounds like just my kind of "fun" - thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 For me (and just me… maybe others will agree) dry tooling is another skill much like ice, snow, rock and aid, that one needs to develop if one chooses to pursue alpine routes. Alternatively it is yet another form of climbing. Looking in any issue of alpinist you’ll see examples of how the ability to drytool/mix climb was crucial to the success of an attempt. Three I always cite are Steve’s repeat of N Twin (he drytooled the original aid crux easily), Russ’s repeat of the wall of shadow (he also easily cruised the A4 pitch with tools avoiding bringing a ledge and aid gear… he did it with leashed tools and sabertooths also) and the fact that people have turned the A.strain into a car to car affair instead of a desperate classic thanks to a little practice with the tools. But once again… that is why I do it. Some people will go just because its fun. I have fun but at the end of the day its yet another way to train for the alpine. And if you needed another excuse generally most of the crag areas with the exception of some desert spots stay wet all winter so what can you do? Stand in line at the gym while Layton hits on your girlfriend? Maybe… but I just get more out of being outside… so I drytool. With all that said if I had a choice I would rock climb year round... but I don't so I drytool. If you guys get a night up there I'd be stoked to come up and get in on the action. You kids just need to pick a night and plan it... people will come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 ...and the fact that people have turned the A.strain into a car to car affair instead of a desperate classic thanks to a little practice with the tools. yup, in the rockies, every tom, dick and jane is jumping from hafner creek straight to ED routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Nice namedropping NOLSe! Drytooling's just the in thing right now, like all things, that will change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Alright d00d... mistype on my part. Still drytooling never hurt anyone... agreed? And Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... My friend Brock's third trad climb/first aid route ever was ED- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 A Strain's a TD according to my handy dandy conversion chart! I myself am gonna quibble with NOLSe's description of Steve House on N Twin as "freeing the crux". Seems like a fair bit of aid was used on this climb according to the published descriptions! [namedrop]Maybe he was thinking of Raphael on Temple [/namedrop] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Nice namedropping NOLSe! I give up... I should just start blogging or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 dru, the ratings sections of the newer elaho guides (swbc, waddington) call it ED1. i know kevin & don spent a LOT of time trying to find good N. American examples for each of the alpine grades, that's good enough for me. (p.s. the nose is still grade VI, even though it's been done in < 4 hours) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 It can't be ED1 cause I know of people who have climbed it that can't climb ED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Hey treknclime and alpinedave: get something going! Get Ade and anybody else interested to go with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... No knock to Russ Mitrovich, but I'm fairly sure that it was Jimmy Haden was on the sharp end for that pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 dru wrote: It can't be ED1 cause I know of people who have climbed it that can't climb ED oh, well i guess that settles that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... No knock to Russ Mitrovich, but I'm fairly sure that it was Jimmy Haden was on the sharp end for that pitch. Name dropper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... No knock to Russ Mitrovich, but I'm fairly sure that it was Jimmy Haden was on the sharp end for that pitch. Name dropper! Sorry, it fell out while I was cleaning up after you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 I'm waiting for the SR900 directions, and once I have them, I'll guarantee I'll get up there within a couple of days...rain or shine. I'll get in touch with Dave, Ade, TM, and some others for a night like you all in PDX. Sounds fun, and motivating. As far as doing something really hard, who knows, maybe you'll see my name attached to a class 2 route...a DT first ascent! I'm also getting set for a trip up HW410, and I know of a couple of potential places up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Tues/Wed (Feb 1/2) next week? Maybe Fromage can bring his new borrowed toys. The place I'm thinking of is just beyond Issaquah a ways on SR 900 on the right. Choss heap crag, has some bolts, but you can walk around. might be kind of tall though, can't remember. what I do remember is being the attendant on a litter practice there once... softball sized rock came off the top and exploded 12" above the patient's head. anyone know what it's called or if people would care if it got scratched up? As I recall there seemed to be as much moss as rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Also, NOLSe, did you say you had some system you used w/ your leashless tools to keep from dropping them down the whole pitch. might be a good idea with n00bs like us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Yeah! I'll take some pics tonight and tomorrow at PDX DT night and post them sometime Thursday. From my experiences and watching other first timers I would suggest your first few times you might want to go with leashes. Also if your interest in DTing is more for alpine preparedness I would say climb like you would in the alpine (w/ leashes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 I thought Petzel made something, but maybe NOLSe made something up w/webbing. If I remember right, it's basically like the old skewl tie-ins that were used on ice tools. I'll check out a map, and do a drive by. AlpineDave was right to ask...anyone care if the rock is trashed up a bit with some dry-tool'in action? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 I thought Petzl made something, but maybe NOLSe made something up w/webbing. Grivel makes it though I think the length is a bit too short. Basically it’s an umbilical... where you attach it (esp. with double handle tools) is crucial if you match/swap hands often or do repetitive figure 4/9s. Post what day you guys are going… I’ll try to come up a few times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 I would like to check out some toolin as well. I've never swung my tools at rock before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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