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Lillooet Conditions ??


gulper

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I came to this conclusion about two years ago. Plenty of boats available on Craig's list, rolling sessions and intro course available through the WKC.

 

I just went out with friends and got worked - but if you don't know any boaters the course route might be the way to go.

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Temps have been +2 to +5 in the last 2 days. Although the forecast is for rain I bet you might be able to find wet ice to climb high up the Duffy, like at the Rambles. But if you aren't already locked into going this would not be the weekend to go. Not to mention with the minor hockey tournament in townthis weekend you would not be able to get a hotel room in town either.

 

I bet Night N Gale is in too together with a big fat avvy hazard and potential rockfall on your car driving up Road 40 to get there.

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I was thinking, this would be a good time to take up kayaking, Warm temps, probably be able to run some creeks that never have enough water in them to kayak.

 

any want to take me?

What's wrong with you?! This weekend is for sitting in the dark, listening to Puppy while sharpening your tools. All the while sinking deeper in to a mire of self loathing.

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went for a quick spin up the duffey to have a look. all the usual suspects are still hangin in there but are suffering to one degree or another. loose lady and the rambles are faring the best and still looked pretty good. it was interesting along the stretch of road between Carlsberg and the rambles in places where the road is relatively close in proximity and elevation to the river there were large chunks of ice nearly on the road and scattered through the bush. I guesse an ice jam let go. some reasonable temps fairly soon and it shouldnt take to long for things to get back in shape.

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There were three parties there Saturday (Jan 22); a group of 3 arrived and left early, another party of 2 from WA (white Toyota 2wd p/u).

 

We were the 2nd group in, the first was already setting up in the Dihedral area so we roped up for IcyBC. There was a gusher about halfway up the first pitch that was pouring down on/ spraying the lower half. By the time I had my second axe in I was already soaked so backed off and came in through the top of Torn Fish Lips. Ice was thick and plastic throughout. 2nd pitch was fat and dry, third pitch is HUGE all the way across and all the upper pitches are formed fat to the top (see pic). IcyBC in WI4 condition.

 

Climbed Body Shop next, ducked in behind the pillar at mid-height for natural pro, it was dripping a bit on the lower half, upper-half dry. Again ice stellar and fat, light WI5'ish.

 

Deeping Wall in v. cool shape, consolidated flow ice, sticky plastic WI4. The left side is flowing water leaving the middle part in the pic fairly dry. There's dead-fall across the normal exit left at the top so climbed out right.

 

The new route far left is in great shape, as is Dales and the Dihedral. Waite for Spring and the new farmed lines are climbable but were running pretty good and eroding fast. Deeping Wall as per the pic. No Deductible bolts are iced in, but not thick enough for screws. As per above, all the top pitches are FAT.

 

It'll last a week or two in this condition but will be gone quickly if we don't get some cold weather. Take gortex.

 

3rd Pitch IcyBC

432201-IMG_0166.thumb.jpg.878b68ca05dbf1a7123577128cdee966.jpg

Edited by LYleK
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Damn that look wet frown.gif

 

Very, I wrung a half-cup of water out of my gloves after Deeping. I'm a big fan of spring ice climbing conditions though, you just can't go wrong; every placement sticks, there's no shattering or breakage, feet are solid, every screw threads first try and feels good. The suffer factor is way down. It's just that narrow window before it becomes slush, for me it's the ice climbing equivalent of waist-deep powder smile.gif You do have batten-down the gortex, though.

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Excellent!

Some of us tought nothing is available because was warm in the city. They were wrong. You did great work. I see that you like to climb in any conditions, instead sitting at home and crying to friends that season is over.

Thank you for the report.

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