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Peter_Puget

Rock CLimbing Washington

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Doesn't he just buy all the other guide books and use them as a "template" for the info in his book?

I am not a big fan of the book but it is nice to have some info about places that do not have their own guide. I still promote the locals guides.

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-I believe the description for the second pitch of Zig Zag at Mt. Erie is incorrect. The true route never goes to the snag, it goes straight up into the corner, which is really nice! There have also been additional routes and bolts stations established at and above the second pitch.

 

-The best trail to Givlers Dome basically head straight up to the route. The picture is misleading and sends people schwacking off right on an old trail.

 

-Going from Three-O-Clock Rock over to the combs IS a nightmare. I wouldn't even mention this route in the book.

 

-Please mention the parking fees at Vantage.

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"If you steal from one another it's plagiarism; if you steal from many, it's research. - Wilson Mizner

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"A lot of people who write guidebooks

don't really know that much about it,

they don't even know that much

about the area. They don't do the

routes, they don't talk to people who have

done the routes -- and that's the

reason that a lot of guidebooks are

not especially informative."

- Alan Watts, smithrock.com interview

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include some history, or at least FA information!

 

 

is anyone working on a washington pass area guide? that would be a nifty guide fo sho' (or is Burdo updating his outdate, but useful guide).

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Every spring I hear rumors that Burdos update is coming out. I agree though Mike, that would be a good guide. Maybe you should get on it if Burdo isn't.

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I'd have to agree with Marty Bland on this one. The first Smoot guide was littered with erroneous route info, grades, and locations. Local guidebooks do a much better job giving beta on an area. How can 1 guy climb every route in the entire state? He can't. Where does he get the beta from on routes he didn't climb? Copied from local guidebooks?

 

I hope this didn't come accross too harsh, but please don't publish a second edition of the guidebook.

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Perhaps if people were to send him corrections the second edition would be better than the first. In any event it seems improbable that a second edition will not be published.

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Do you think if you send him better pictures there will be less shots of himself wearing tube socks and EBs blush.gif

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It's not plagarism if you cite your sources. I'd rather have an accurate and detailed book citing other's work than an inaccurate one I researched first hand. The idea of the book is not to replace local guide books. It is designed as a survey of all the places in the state to give you a taste of what's there. Then if you like what you see you should go buy the local guide. As such, it should place particular emphasis on getting you to the place with as little trouble as possible.

 

I've been told that the directions to Static Point were not good in the first addition. I can't speak first hand, but if this is true, it should be corrected. Dave Schuldt, MattP and others who frequent that area could help.

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The idea of the book is not to replace local guide books. It is designed as a survey of all the places in the state to give you a taste of what's there. Then if you like what you see you should go buy the local guide. As such, it should place particular emphasis on getting you to the place with as little trouble as possible.

 

Exactly. The update isn't a new edition, just an update, an opportunity to correct errors and outdated information, not to go and pillage the local guide books. Not really looking for new route info, just corrections, current access information, local guidebooks available, and so on. Thanks to those who've provided corrections and updates. I appreciate it.

 

Oh, and I definitely could use some new photos, although I must say I'd rather see pictures of myself in tube socks and EBs than lycra.

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Maybe you could consult the new Mt. Erie book for the correct route of Zig Zag and beta for other Erie routes.

 

Possibly mention New Halem.

 

Leave out mention of Shuksan Crag. It's an old, small route.

 

Again, mention parking fees at Vantage and where to get permits.

 

People bash on your book man, but I used that thing till the bindings fell apart my first few years of climbing. After I became more familiar with the areas, and I if liked the areas, I bought a local guide. People should stop comparing local guides with this one, they have different purposes.

If someone is road tripping through Washington, do you expect them to buy local books for each crag? No! That would be dumb and a waste of money. This book will get people around just fine. Once they get there and climb a few things, they'll figure it out.

You get the best information about a route by climbing it.

Frankly , I like the short descriptions for the routes, it doesn't give everything away.

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People bash on your book man, but I used that thing till the bindings fell apart my first few years of climbing.

after my binding fell apart i duct-taped little mini-guides together for each area (chapter). fast and light. thumbs_up.gif but actually i don't trust much of anything in that book, and really only use it for cross-refrencing.

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-I believe the description for the second pitch of Zig Zag at Mt. Erie is incorrect. The true route never goes to the snag, it goes straight up into the corner, which is really nice! There have also been additional routes and bolts stations established at and above the second pitch.

 

-The best trail to Givlers Dome basically head straight up to the route. The picture is misleading and sends people schwacking off right on an old trail.

 

-Going from Three-O-Clock Rock over to the combs IS a nightmare. I wouldn't even mention this route in the book.

 

-Please mention the parking fees at Vantage.

 

I was wrong!

Pitch 2 of Zig Zag goes up left from the bolt anchor to a crack that trends right and then up to a ledge then the layback section. Never reaches the snag nor does it actually go all the way up into the overhanging corner (which is fun "Undercover"). I got this info from Dallas's new book. Which ever way you choose to climb, it is fun though.

It would be best to consult hiw new book directly.

There is also a comment on the Tree Route in The Cirque that you should read.

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Sorry to contribute to the rumor mill, but Burdo told me that there would be a new book by this summer.

rolleyes.gif

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