skyclimb Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 I need help finding good guidebooks to the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru. Any suggestions on cool routes would be greatly appreciated as well. Rock, Ice, anything that was fuckin' rockin' Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 I have Yuraq Janka & The Peruvian Andes (beaud). They're both for sale. I also have "mountaineering in the Andes" which is a bibliography - can copy some pages if you are interested. PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 Brad Johnson's book is the one to get:  http://www.rei.com/product/47822221.htm  ISBN: 1-890437-90-5  Can't beat Brad's effort...and you'll know your $$ is going to a great guy. He's been climbing in the Blanca for years, and really did his homework on the new guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 (edited) I'm getting old and senile but there is a very new book out, just a few years old.like published in '02 or '03? awesome color pics of the rts and current...but i can't remember the damn title right now. it's the one to get, though. shit, it'll come to me... Â i can give you a contact name/email of a peruvian dude who is a pro to deal with if you need muleteers,cooks,porters, transportation to/from trailhead,hotels, bus transport to/from Huaraz. He is insanely cheap and let's you enjoy the climbing instead of dealing w/ bullshit. you need to speak abit of spanish though. Â Toclaraju and Urus(for acclamitization fun) is good stuff we did. ishinca is a gorgeous peak if you want something mellower than Toc. all peruvian classics accessed by one valley/trailhead. Â edit: thank you treknclimb! that's it! Â edit2: my avatar pic is of Toc(in the distance) and the view from my tent. pretty spot. Edited January 19, 2005 by griz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 Brad Johnson's book is definately the one to have. That is all I used when I was there last summer and actually, I ended up giving the photocopy of the route description from Johnson's book, to some guys who got lost using the one by that english guy, sherman or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foolscongress Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 two great books are: The Andes: a Climber's Guide, by John Biggar; and Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, by David M. Sharman. used them both for my trip, am using them again this year. brad johnson's book looks good too, though haven't used it. Â as for routes, depends on how good you are. i'm not any kind of great climber, so we concentrated on routes in the paron valley. in this small valley are a couple peaks that go at 60-70 degrees of alpine ice (artesonraju and piramide norte), and the paron peaks (grande and the other one) that are walk ups. the area is a good warmup for bigger plans if you are going to be there awhile, and the glacier is only about 6 miles from where the taxi drops you off. not too crowded in the paron, which is nice. Â have a great time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 there are some good spanish language ones too, but the names escape me. I think there is one by Juanjo Tome - which is OK, but should be cross-referenced as in some cases his descriptions are out of date for the deterioration of ice faces and glaciers. Â supposedly Elaho will be publishing a guide to the Cordillera Huayhuash in the near future too. Â www.cosleyhouston.com is a good resource for pretty pictures, ideas etc. . They guide there every year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted January 19, 2005 Share Posted January 19, 2005 Got a PM asking for the contact info so I figured I'd just post it. You can email him in english and I think he has someone translate it for him. Â Kallpa Expeditions in Huaraz - Rodolfo is the dude. <info@peruviantrek.com> Â good luck and I'm jealous, bitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkernews Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 Don't know about guidebooks... but Huaraz is the shiznit if you're looking for a basecamp. Check out the Vagamundo Bar... you'll never want to leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foolscongress Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 Don't know about guidebooks... but Huaraz is the shiznit if you're looking for a basecamp. Check out the Vagamundo Bar... you'll never want to leave. i second that. vagamundo for president! stay away from the tambo if you're trying for an alpine start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timcb Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Same question, but for Bolivia.. Is Yossi Brain's book the best? I think I used his Ecuador guide and found it kind of rudimentary. Â Also, can you suggest any good climbing/travel narratives for the Andes? Something to just fuel the stoke? Â thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 not to be off topic to much but when you leaving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timcb Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Plans now are to spend much of June, July and August in Peru and Bolivia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 Leaving on June 20th, coming back to the states about 2 months post June 20th with mr. Thadsboner.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timcb Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Schweet. Huaraz pub club? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted February 13, 2005 Author Share Posted February 13, 2005 You can bet your ass on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 The Yossi Brain book is kinda thin, kinda lame. Check out Alain Mesili's book "The Andes of Bolivia". The first version was only in espanol (Los Andes de Bolivia), this second one in english. The new version has lots more updates, great pics, and more routes than you can shake a stick at. He's a french guy (?) that's been living in Bolivia since the 70s or so and has put up tons of first ascents. He's the Fred Beckey of Bolivia. I used the book when I went and found it very useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 28, 2005 Share Posted June 28, 2005 supposedly Elaho will be publishing a guide to the Cordillera Huayhuash in the near future too. Â This guidebook is now out. A Guide to Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, authored by Jeremy Frimer. Lots of awesome photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 This guidebook is now out. A Guide to Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, authored by Jeremy Frimer. Lots of awesome photos. Â Is it actually available, or some ephemeral dream? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 yes it is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 yes it is available. silly me, I though elaho had a modern website. chesslers carries it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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