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Orizaba, Ixta


Jbetoo

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Headed down to Mexico next weekend. For those who have climbed these two peaks, what was your acclimitization schedule? I don't think my 20,000+ schedule is necessary but don't want to feel like shit either. Basically, how many days since leaving the north country before summiting? Thanks for the help.

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When I was down there a few years ago, we summited Orizaba on day 7 of our trip, prior to travelling to Orizaba we spent several days hanging out on La Malinche, a nearby 14'er. There's a gov't ran resort at 10,000ft on La Malinche that is a nice cushy place to start your acclimitization. We arrived at the hut on Orizaba on day 5, on day 6 we hiked up to the base of the glacier and then back to the hut, next day we summited. Didn't need any diamox but could definitely feel the altitude when trying to sleep at the hut.

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My second trip to Orizaba i summited on day three of the trip. I was hurting a little bit, but my buddies had already been sitting in the hut for three or four days by the time I got there and just wanted to climb. I took diamox and was living at 6500ft at the time so maybe that helped.

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I'm living at 7,500 feet so I figure I'll be fine heading up Orizaba on day 5, then bolting over (if that's possible in Mexico) and doing Ixta in one long day from La Joya.

Is camping at the base of the glacier on Orizaba worth it? I've heard too many stories about thieves at the huts. At least maybe that would minimize danger. Thanks for the info.

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Is camping at the base of the glacier on Orizaba worth it? I've heard too many stories about thieves at the huts. At least maybe that would minimize danger. Thanks for the info.

 

If you are concerned about theft, you could slip a little tip to one of the folks that work for your 4WD service to get you to Piedra Grande. Señor Reyes often has folks that hang around for that purpose. The camp by the glacier can be done, but it is windy there usually and of course sleeping higher can give you a restless night due to altitude issues.

 

The main thing about the hut is don't leave anything out in the open unattended. Folks have gotten stove parts and stuff missing just because they were sitting on the counter. It isn't clear, but the sticky fingers could be your fellow climbers. There are folks that come up to the hut to stay overnight that have no intention to climb however.

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we did Orizaba pretty quickly, I guess day 6 of the trip, but it's only only a 2 day climb. Was living at 5k at the time. Flew in and slept one night in D.F. at 8k or so, then traveled to Malinche as well for a day hike. Then to Reyes, and had one night there (10k?). Up to the hut and pitched a tent nearby, 14k. Half day to 16k, bit of a nap, then summit and back down to town the next day. Didn't hurt at all. Nice peak.

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