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John Frieh

Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

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this has to be the longest thread on facebook ;) maybe kevbone has the record.... i don't even know- obtuse house cat's does not count :)

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I will be up at rocky butte with a rope and my mini trax, anybody else is welcome to show if they want to get some laps in.

 

Warning: will be canceled if thunder storms arrive.

 

Hopefully see a few of you,

 

Cheers

 

Bryan

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At rocky today...show up if you would like. Probably be down on the west end..look for a white vibe.. bring an extra rope if you want.

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Nice to see Ujhan and Kyle out there yesterday. Would like to get a few more peps and a few more ropes. When you have five ropes and about six or so people lots more climbing gets done.

 

Talked to Ujhan and we are going to try and do it again on Wedensday the 5/9/12.

 

I will be the one in green crocs with a rolly and beer in hand:)

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Running laps at ROcky today after work. I will be there around 6ish. I will be on the west end. Show up if you would like.

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Meeting up thursday after work for some Rocky laps. Should be there by six. Setting up a few ropes on the west end. look for a white vibe.

 

Bryan

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Going to be there tonight with three ropes and a six pack. I figure we will be climbing form after work until it gets dark, we get drunk, or are arms get tired.

 

-bryan

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this has to be the longest thread on facebook ;) maybe kevbone has the record.... i don't even know- obtuse house cat's does not count :)

 

Correct, and it needs a thread revival, @ 10 years after John started it. ...any of you old women even climb any more? I'm finishing up 2 big shoulder surgeries, right one still hurts, but Ujahn and I wanted to get our lap on tomorrow so that when Beacon opens soon we don't have our manboobs whacking our knees trying to hangdawg the corner. As much. Whacking our knees ...as much.

 

If you can give world class belay and want to hang with an old man and a cripple, maybe give a route a go or 2, speak up. No drytooling.......

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When is that email coming through? Been a year. LOL.

 

Great thread. It appears I both climbed better and wrote better 10 years back. Beacon opening soon stoke!!! Crazy but this thread got moved from "Rockclimbing" to "Climbing partners" and shortly after that just died. Currently 1885 posts and 3,631,388 page views. 3,631,388! John just wanted a belay to go dry tooling and look what happened.

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You bummed me out Bill! I don't usually look in partners... And then I thought WOW! Is this a thing!!?! If it revived I would probably try and check it out sometime.

 

I know RB is a total shit hole anyway but is there an established "area for drytooling? (Haven't read the whole thread...)

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Thread resurrection.

 

I'm going to get out to the Butte this summer and finally learn mixed. I'm looking for partners, beta, spray, whatever.

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Really anytime after this weekend. I'd be up for evening sessions every so often on weekdays, but more likely is weekend days if I can't put together any weekend trips.

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If I have a few days to plan ahead, I can make most weekday evenings work... I'll throw out next Wednesday 7/20 for the hell of it.

 

I don't know Rocky Butte at all. I went once, found a dingy rap down off of some fixed anchors, and then ended up leaving without climbing because nothing looked fun.

 

Given the size of this thread, there must be some decent dry-tooling spots...

 

Can anyone advise? Are there any other good spots near town that we won't get lynched for climbing in crampons? I imaging some off-route lines at Ozone might work...

 

Maybe if we get some pics up of a smaller weekday sesh there will be more interest for larger weekend excursion down the line...

Edited by PuckerJunkie

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As far as other places to climb with crampons close to town, the left (west) side of Farside cliff has no routes, so no one will be bothered. It can be accessed easily from the trail and also easily TR'ed off one of the several trees. Location: if you drive just past the 2nd Ozone parking lot while heading east (about a city block past, Ozone and Farside are RIGHT next to each other @ 100 yards or so with Ozone on the west and Farside the to East) and pull over before the guardrail above the Farside (not after). There is a visible trail right off the road that starts heading out back towards Ozone. Starts maybe 2 steps from your car. If you walk 3 steps from your car and don't see a trail you need to look around where you are. At the 2nd switchback (memory here, which may not be reliable, you'll be right below a perfect little cave/shelter in the rocks if you look up, the road and your car is just uphill @ 40 feet or so), where the trail switchbacks back west towards Ozone just keep heading east no more than probably @15-20 steps into the woods and right there, BAM. Don't trip or you'll be a statistic cause you're above some real steep but vegetated ground. If you need a better orientation just walk to the base and look up. There's some nettles at the base, but you can stomp them down or pull them up if they are disagreeable. (please don't spray them as they are edible if you briefly blanch them and folks do eat them) No poison oak here. The lower part of the trail can use some work if you are looking for a workout and some community service so as you walk by practice chopping steps with the adze of your axes:-)

 

 

 

It could get ugly if someone were to be caught drytooling a rock route at the Butte. The use of tools at the butte was always predicated on the fact that they would not be used on existing older/established routes. If you are parking at the last parking area by Video Bluff, the Drytool area is just past Silver Bullet Bluff to the East on what is noted as "Trivial Wall" in Tim Olsens PDX guidebook and the map below. I never see anyone climbing Garys the Poodle with a Mohawk (Poodle Pinnacle area) a tad further down and higher up (as you hike down the trail going east to the base just look up towards where the road would be) and suspect no one would complain if you were clumping through the English Ivy that's overtaken that area. Link to Tims site where I linked the map photo from.

http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/metro-area/rocky-butte-quarry.htm

 

maprbq.gif

 

 

It's a unique and special place as this quote from 2012 below shows. Not much has changed as last time I was there some homeless camper had a campfire get out of control and started in on the trees (below Blueberry Jam). Don't know if it was wet, he got lucky, or the fire dept put it out: but you can clearly see they all but burned their campsite down and had to move.

"Theres a homeless guy living in the park and I think he's eating cats and dogs. There are dump sites at locations 2 & 3 (among others). At location 1 there's a bone pile, the skull was missing but I identified it as a dog by the pelvis. At location 4 I found a cat skull and a larger bone I couldn't identify. I'll be out there today (oct 19th) cleaning up tires if you'd like to send a park officer."
from: http://www.parkscanpdx.org/observation?id=1059

 

I make no judgement on homeless eating the neighborhood pets, there but the grace of the good lord go I. I'm just saying....it's a "SPECIAL" place.

 

 

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I make no judgement on homeless eating the neighborhood pets, there but the grace of the good lord go I. I'm just saying....it's a "SPECIAL" place.

 

Hahaaa!

 

Thanks for all the excellent beta!!

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Do be aware that the olympic bottle distance throwing, hooker john heaving, and syringe dart decathlon events are all slated to begin out there any day now.

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billcoe, thanks for the beta.

 

Puckerjunkie, up for a Thursday evening sesh next week? I can probably be there by 6pm which would give us a couple hours.

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I'm so stoked to see this thread revived. I'd love to get in on some drytooling action as well throughout the summer. Got room for one more?

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