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John Frieh

Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

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i'll be at broughtons that day w/ my friend mike if you're can't find anyone else to tie in w/ - might have a 3rd coming too

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So I went to the butte with Ujahn last night. Things of note, with the caviet that time stands still for no man. We climbed at "Bill's Buttress" area, off the chains on the newer routes just west of Video Bluff.

 

Most important: Bring a new 60m rope, or better yet - a 70M. The route on the right, my blue 60m Mamut use to reach so that both ends were precisly a foot off the ground. The ends, a year later, of the exact same rope, are now 12-15 feet off the ground both ends! Makes for exciting starts and finishes.

 

Other notes......

 

1st) A route I had rope solo led, and later toprope soloed the upper part several in my tennis shoes while cleaning the lower part, seemed difficult to me. I wouldn't want to lead the damn thing now at all. I had my lead shoes with good rubber, and was only toproping it. I think the route has gotten harder, it can't be that my skillz are diminishing.

 

2nd) The middle route, which I've led, scared me by the loose looking blocks. And after Ujahn had pulled it, when it was my turn, could not stomach how loose looking those huge blocks were and back off without finishing. I think this route as well has gotten harder, it can't be that my skillz are diminishing. I mean, WTF is holding those car sized blocks on up there"? Gezee. Does anyone feel jiggy enough to rap down and try and pry those things off?

 

3rd) You pussies need to get out more to the butte and climb on these routes so they stay clean.

 

4th) Someone pryed a small boulder off midpoint. There is a huge impact crater at the base. Looked for involuntary brown release and saw none, hope it was a planned pull and no one got nailed.

 

5th) the glass, while still present, is substantially less. Last year I cleaned up a FULL, to the top, 5 gallon paint bucket with glass. Filled to within a couple of inches to the brim. I don't think I could get a McDonalds cup full out there now. However, it's spread out, so if you are showing up, a whisk broom, dustpan and container would be a good idea, and rapping with the broom will help keep the slivers out of your fingers. Ujahn and I did our part for ya all and used our fingers to remove some of the slivers out. We are still pulling glass out of our fingers today however, so a broom would have been nice.

 

6th) One of the bolts that has the rings on the top anchors on the East side has loosened up, bring a wrench. This may be the result of shoddy workmanship, or of someone messing around as early on, one of the chains was stolen. (Was replaced and remains there yet)

 

7th) the climbing was suburb - you folks just missed out.

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broughtons was fine y-day - sheer stress rawks! man, wish there was a sweet crack like that at ozone.

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Anyone for a few laps at the butte tonight after work, say 5:30pm?? Anyone?

 

_____________________________________________________________

 

 

I don't know the crag so I'm curious how the broken glass got there.

 

sigh.........

 

Quarrelsome Russian anus lickers polish off a bottle of beer, commonly Corona (variations like Schmirnoffs) and smash it on the rocks for a finale. They use to do this with every bottle in a 12 pack, last year I picked up a full 5 gallon pail of glass at the Bill's Buttress area, like 2 inches from the top of the bucket.

 

We've had some heated discussion and some calm ones. The calm ones seem better but none of them effect change. Once I had the distinct impression as I was getting into hard it with 5 of the pricks: that as they moved into my space - they would toss me off the top of the cliff if I kept it up. I've pretty much done every thing but put holes in the motherfuckers with my 12ga, and I've gotten some of it to cease, but not all.

 

Bottom line: the police non-emergency number is 503-823-3333, call it if you even see these pricks just sitting quietly at the top of the cliff drinking beer up there, and the police will come out. These jackasses will throw the glass down on you even after you have had a calm discussion and they claim to not to throw bottles but to clean up and pack it all out.

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Thanks for all you do Bill. I was at the zone last night.

 

Thanks Kev, hey lets do a planned yank before someone does a Slim Pickens riding the A-bomb on Dr Strangelove move of that big assed rock midpoint 2 routes to the left of Kung Foo. You can ask Dan about the size of my shaft on my prybar and how that went for us on Tiger Paws.

 

Dan: Eric wants to know what routes: this is your guys call, name the tune and I'll dance.

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Perfect! See ya there.

 

Update: my shoulder has been hurting all day from trashing it this weekend, so I may blow you all off tonight. You've got plenty of folks to belay though, so I 'm not leaving you all in the lurch.

Edited by billcoe

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Update: my shoulder has been hurting all day from trashing it this weekend...

 

Can't imagine how that could have happened...

 

'But Yoda, I was only...'

 

''Senior Jedi, know you must - in balance, you must be.'

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Update: my shoulder has been hurting all day from trashing it this weekend...

 

Can't imagine how that could have happened...

 

:lmao::lmao: ! Must be part of an epidemic: hope your's is better as well. I almost can't play ping pong at work. Typically play 6-9 games a day. It's made my ping pong partner happy, cause everytime I reach for that killer forehand slam and wince in pain and then miss it, he gets a point instead of a ball crammed down his throat. After many, many, many months of losing, he's now consistently winning.

 

The crowing noises from the other side of the table are a bit difficult to listen too, but other than the pain, I suspect that it's been good for us both:-)

 

Hope that you all had a great time out there.

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Anyone up for some climbing at the butte after work?

Edited by aradia

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