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John Frieh

Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

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Uh oh, Bill is sounding serious about climbing this year - must be his semi-annual trip to the Valley in the offing and some hard climbing at Beacon when he gets back. I better start losing weight and getting back in shape...

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You look better now than last winter Joseph, you were haveing shoulder issues then I think - so I expect you'll be kicking ass as usual, I'm think that I'm the one that needs to drop a few pounds to keep up with you.

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geoff, would you rather go to ozone or broughtons? the rock oughta be drier for sure!

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Possibly. It would depend on how soon I could get out of town tomorrow and if I'm going down to the Illinois Friday. Should know more later today.

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I'm glad some of you are keeping this thread going with the advent of spring here in Portland. I had good intentions of making it out last year, but never quite sealed the deal.

 

Here's to thrashing up some rock this spring with new partners. :brew:

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Anyone doing this tonight? I haven't been on this cliff this year, but Ujhan got up there at the Butte last weekend and said it was in fact - very slimy, and dirty. Some of us wusses need to get off the couch and chalk the f*cking shit out of this cliff to dry it off. ...Or at least try to cling on much like a slug on a ice cube.

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geoff and i are going to ozone this afternoon bill - should be there 'roudn 3 - i gotta split by 615 though...

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Thanks for the invite: you 2 would be the most excellent cats meow to hang with, and I'm sure the Zone would be much better this time of year than the Butte: however, I was sketched on time, trying to hit the Couve cross over during rush hour sucks. I don't know how some people do that twice a day every day.

 

As it was, we got in @ 5 quick laps and it was good. Just Ujhan, Troy and I.

 

Hopefully next time.

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nice - we raged w/ denalidave - did whatever that cool trad thing is left of the mountie route that leads to the one pin bouldery hard thing to the cool ledge - did the very hard/steep hard thing above that, then when doing a tr lap on it via what seemed an alternative i kicked off a number of belay and dog slayers, using my head to pin a football sized rock against the cliff for a bit while searching for spike the puppy - think it freaked geoff and dave a bit more than me. finished w/ that moderate 10 next to the crumbling - what a cool route!

 

nice n' damp on the approach trail - was stoked to avoid spilling my coffee while slip'n'slide'n'on-down

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How wet/mossy was the rock? Was the overhanging stuff seeping?

 

Anybody game for Ozone this weekend? Or maybe Broughton's?

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the rock at ozone was nice and dry - i imagine the .11s will still be dry this weekend too

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Hmmm...I'm not sure that's gonna help ME too much! Still, I suppose the stuff way climber's right at Broughton's should stay dry (Rat wall? Red wall? I can't remember).

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some of the walls at broughton have routes that will dry out quickly, or even stay totally dry while it's raining....But all of the walls there also have spots that are effected by seepage and take a long time to dry out.

 

but for climbing without any wet rock, i wouldn't hold out much hope for either broughton or ozone this weekend...

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I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

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I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

 

Do it Frank, please consider this official permission.

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The rain is suppose to taper off Wednesday, anyone thinking of Thurs laps at R. Butte? (assuming sunny and dry)

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I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

was it carrots for everybody, the .10 to the left of the big tree that's right against the wall (there was an old shirt there up till last weekend)? saw a big rock scar there last thursday.

 

i don't know that it's freeze/thaw - just that the rock at ozone is oft questionable - most of the trad lines there are damn heady given the block, craptacular nature of what the pro's resting on - i felt giblets and gravy in my drawers the other day when doing kevbone's methrage - the climbings not all that hard, but the possibilty of a tragedy as a result of a fall palpable...

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Yo Bill, I might be down for thursday afternoon at da Butte. I'm going Snowboarding, but T-Line is closing at 3, so I should be down the hill in time.

 

Troy

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