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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night


John Frieh

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I need a solid belayer tonight. Someone needs to step up to the plate here......

 

Ujahn just called with some bullshit story about his anniversary and he had to cancel.

 

So, I was being polite before and playing nice by inviting others to get a good belay, but as you can see the tide has shifted.....

 

Don't make me start yelling here.....whos in?

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It's been 2 hours, no responses yet, don't make me start crying....

 

or soloing....

 

Or soloing and crying....hmmmm. Maybe thats OK, thats what I'll do.

 

All those solo devices just going to waste in my basement too. :cry::grin:

 

I will be down for an afterwork pump and if I see any of you folks up there I'm begging a belay...otherwise, I'm good by myself.

 

later dudes and dudettes

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bueller ?

 

bueller ?

 

Anyone?

 

"I talked with my firends cousin, who said he was speaking with his girlfriends brother who knew this guy that saw him pass out a 31 flavors last night. "

 

It may not be verbatim, but it will work off the top of my head. Bill I would kindly give you a belay, but I am just not in the area. If you wanna come down and climb the tallest mt in the lower 48 with me on saturday I can pick you up from the san jose airport.

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"....Bill I would kindly give you a belay, but I am just not in the area. If you wanna come down and climb the tallest mt in the lower 48 with me on saturday I can pick you up from the san jose airport.

 

I'd climb with you at the drop of the hat Brian, and I'd drop the hat! But Damn, I got an invite and local plans for Sat already! Whitney sounds cooler than here though! Hope I see a Trip report !

 

 

damn! I need to get my ass out there! not today...but soon!

 

Yes, I agree, but not "soon"....today :-) :lmao:

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OK, I toprope soloed "The Plum", making and clipping knots. This would have been better had I brought my 60M rope which would have reached the ground, instead of the 50 Meter rope I used: could have used somebodies stick clip there:-) especially since the crux is the first 15-20 feet.

 

But I was dancing, soo sweet. Cleaned a bit too.

 

You folks missed out.

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My left hand isn't quite healed from the last time I climbed with you or I would have been there. I've been restricted to 7 and 8's.

 

Maybe next time.

*cough*pussy*cough*

 

Kidding. One of the problems with or sport is the constant reminders of our mortality via the little continual aches and pains.

 

Hey Geoff, sorry to hear that. Same thing happened to Tim couple years back (Crackman) when he was out with me after work doing laps on Toothpick.

 

As a result of that experince I resolved to never tell someone that route is 11a again just because it seems that way to me when the book list it at 11c or whatever they say.

 

I hope I wasn't sandbagging you, cause if I was I apologise, I don't want to do that, even unintentionally.

 

Hope you heal soon.

 

If you can still belay, why not show up tomorrow and hang out @ 5:30pm, you guys make the call on the area.

 

BTW, I went out this weekend with Stan Miller and we climbed until I was whimpering and then he kept at it. I think I sometimes do that with folks. I was telling him it reminded me of a young labrador: get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball, hey get the ball get the ball toss the ball get the ball get the ball throw the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball toss the ball..till ya finally just toss the ball into the neighbors fenced backyard and call it a day. :lmao:

 

He's like jabbering about hey if I get a few more pitches in thats like 20 for the weekend with you ha ha and I'll be pretty tired and we're gonna be done by noon today aren't we is this really 12a wheres the pro how do you lead this that pin isn't at a natural stance and if you miss the clip you deck and how come theres no chalk up there and all that moss how bout a belay hey Bill where does the route go on the upper part do you use that block I'll TR it and we can see whats up and then we can throw the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball get the ball toss the ball.....

 

Damn he's strong...quiet the inspiration, great guy to boot, perfect belays. Got to hang with Ujahn for a lot of it too.

 

Anyway, I need to try and stay in shape to keep up with those dudes.

 

Tomorrow at 5:30pm, where do we meet? Ooo oo ooo, "The Plum" looks like this: 3 Ujahn pics of the start, middle, near the top: Bill_leading_Stan_Miller_belaying_the_Plum.jpg

 

Bill_on_the_plum.jpg

 

105994836_medium_f24132.jpg

 

Does my ass look big in that last pic? Oh nevermind, dems just Hexes.

:lmao:

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I got out hemp, I am so fri*ckan sore right now that I cannot totally evalate is it really was worth it. (it was, but I'm worked for sure).

 

I almost didn't head, but noted that the rain had stopped as I was leaving work.

 

I was pretty much just cleaning (the routes in the earlier post, and the ones on both sides) , but was traversing left, right and up and do got some actual climbing in: note that it was interesting in that it was near perfect cleaning conditions.

 

1) The moss was damp enough to stick together so you could grab and rip it off like a carpet mat.

 

2) The dirt inside of the cracks was damp enough to scrape rightout without being too dry to spread all over the frikan place when you scraped it out and totally dust your feet.

 

3) the rock was @ 90 percent dry, so I was staying dry, and it was obvious where there was a spot of dirt as it showed up dark, so you could hit it with a scraper, then brush it right off with out breathing dust.

 

4) The rain kept everyone away, only one other soul showed up so I was pretty much tossing rocks with fairly wild abandon, and not totally sweating every lil rock potentially hitting a wandering lost soul.

 

The only fella to show up yelled up that he wanted bolting and "route setting" lessons. ? :wazup:

 

Later, after my addled brain had sorted out our discussion, I realized I should have just rappeled on down and engaged the fella.

 

In my mind, "route setting" isn't a term. Those routes have been there since they blew the hell out of the cliff, someone just needed to show up and toss to loose shit off. I did point out that these routes were done, finihed, and I was just cleaning it off so folks like him would have a better experince, but he didn't seem to care...wandered off after I gave him some directions.

 

Route setting my ass, grab a shovel and get yer ass to work! :lmao:

 

It was real good.

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