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John Frieh

Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

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Looking forward to meeting some of you, Bri has only had good things to say about climbing with you guys.......

Awww I guess I mentioned that ya'll are nice....

I'll bring a rope and some gear for anchors.

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beacon was awful phat 2day - u folx n'your heroine habitat no doubt could Sense The Stoke

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I got enough DTing over the weekend to last me till next... that and my feet will go on strike if I put boots back on anytime soon cry.gifyellaf.gifcry.gifyellaf.gif so yeah... rock gear only

 

See you turds tomorrow wazzup.gif

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Just to be clear, no one has heard so much as a peep out of me for 17 of the 19 years I've been climbing out at Beacon and I would have been fine with it staying that way other than I started wanting to be able to climb there as often and early as possible, to do it on decent anchors, and without rocks falling on me. And Jim Opdyke strongly expressed an adamant opinion Beacon-locals should control the future of climbing there - not Seattle climbers or a national group of folks who basically don't climb at Beacon. So a BRCA resurrected with a public face of postings on CC.com has served as the vehicle making whatever has been accomplished a reality.

 

The postings here publicly evidence the BRCA's involvement with, and contribution to, the on-going managment of climbing at Beacon by the BRSP. They basically serve as a sort of "audit trail" of documentation employees of various agencies can reference in paperwork to support their decision to recognize and work cooperatively with the BRCA. Trust me, I get tired of this way faster than you do, but they have been and remain a necessary requirement for Beacon locals to have a strong hand and direct voice in the future of climbing at their favorite crag. Basically, I don't write them for myself or even for you so much, but so we have some sort of Beacon-local voice the dreaded "they" can discern and reference when dealing with us and their parent agencies in Olympia...

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Just so you know, I now believe, more than ever, that a policy of full engagement, truthfullness, helpfullness and honesty is the correct path to happieness at Beacon.

 

You've swayed me to you position despite my early misgivings and doubts.

 

Lets do laps tonight.

 

ps, Mav, we haven't met, look for me , I'll be the old fat guy........unless Joseph shows up.....then I'll be the short old fat guy.

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you're out of duct tape? never heard of such a thing. shocked.gif

 

Sounds like you have a pretty big stash. thumbs_up.gifyelrotflmao.gif

 

All I have with me is some caulk which will seal your raingutters if that will help. Maybe some athletic tape as well.

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To about what time are people going to stay tell?

 

Stay tell, pumped we get.

 

(where's the yoda gremlin?)

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I'll stay till everyone is done or till I need a beer. bigdrink.gif

I can grab some d-tape. Where will you guys be...

Happy first day of SUMMER!

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hi all, since it looks like there are some other folks heading out, i figured i'd say that i'm gonna be out at the butt too.

so if you see a couple ugly guys hangdogging on all the primo dirty 5.7s, don't be afraid, we don't smell too bad once you get used to us.

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Hey, back the anchors up will ya. BTW, I have some brand new rope protectors from REI, esp for WR.

 

Too late for the Maxim I wore through jugging, but hey, what's a mother to do?

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Hey, back the anchors up will ya. BTW, I have some brand new rope protectors from REI, esp for WR.

 

Too late for the Maxim I wore through jugging, but hey, what's a mother to do?

 

What did I tell you about those maxim ropes.

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I know I know. Thats exctalacatly correct sir. BTW, you itching from finding the DMM hidden colored Easter Nut hunt in the poison Oak yet?

 

I am! Just starting on the foot. yeooooo shocked.gifyelrotflmao.gif

 

BTW, think I might have gottened Scorpioned twice on Beacon Sat. Interesting, both holes (little left finger and side of same hand) are inflamed.

 

We looked for you tonight BTW. I have a better story I'll tell in the next frame.

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So John, Allison, Chris, Bri and I were doing a few laps on the various breakfast cracks. Nice company, nice weather etc. Thank you all for the great time.

 

We get an OK pump and finish @ sunset. I'm suppose to go visiting on a social call, but think I'll stop by the Buttress first and check for Beer Bottle Throwers.

 

There are 8 to 9 dudes there. It must be the entire Russian Beer Bottle throwing team. Within 10 seconds I see one of the jackasses toss a beer bottle off the cliff.

 

Now let me first say, I was there last week setting up a rap when 2 Russian dudes showed up. They had no beer. I engaged them in friendly conversation, and one of them brought up the fact that they throw the beer bottles off. I explained why it was wrong as politely as I could, keeping my last tense confrontation with the 5 guys on this very subject at that very spot and the ensueing lack of communication and ability to effect positive change in the dudes as a baseline in my memory of something to be avoided, I went out of my way to politely engage and present my views on this. 15 min later I'm 40 feet below the cliff hanging on a jumar and the first bottle comes whizzing over. My screams of rage were noticed when the second bottle was tossed and then there were no more.

 

So when I showed up tonight, I have some history with this. None of it happy. So whoosh goes the bottle and whoosh I dial 911. Turns out - they had me dial the non-emergency number, 503-823-3333 which I did and explained the situation. 21 min later the first officer showed up. I explained the situation and gave her my info and as I was showing her the trail to the miscreants 2 other officers showed up, and she asked me to stay back. Which I did, but I crept up and watched anyway.

 

They walked out to where they could see them and waited less than 30 seconds for a bottle to be thrown. Then they pounced.

 

As I was leaving, I saw 2 more officers show up on the road, so I stopped to show them the trail. They assured me that they knew exactly the position and the trail as they had been here previously for this very thing.

"Probably the same group", he says.

"Russians?" I ask.

"Yup", comes the reply.

 

I hightailed it, but left feeling happier for 3 reasons.

 

1st) I finally feel that I might have a chance to clean up the glass and have it not show up like some half-crazed magic bean that refuses to stop growing.

 

2nd) I can say with some assurances to the rest of you all: if you witness this kind of crap out there, calling 503-823-3333 will get you a positive response and a positive resolution.

 

3rd) My actions my have saved some poor unsuspecting person from being hit from a bottle tossed from 80 feet up.

 

Talking with those guys directly was like hitting yourself on the head with a hammer. Now I see a better way to effect change.

 

If you see these dickheads up there again, watch and dial the number to report it.

 

We can make this stop.

 

We must.

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Wow! What a night! They must have been the peeps who threw the cig. butt down on our heads! Nice work Bill! And thanks again. We had alot of fun!

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Good for you Bill! That is a crazy story, but so glad you took action. Bri was great and brought a plastic bag down today and cleaned up as she went. Every little bit makes a difference......What a crazy exciting proactive story.....and to think we were just sitting around drinking beer while this all went down!

 

Today was really great. Thanks so much for the anchors to climb on. I definitely want to come out when you are setting them up and help and watch. Great meeting you and John, can't wait to do it again.....

 

PS sweet too, you spelled my name right! grin.gif

 

 

 

next time..... bigdrink.gif

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excellent work bill. good job takin charge.

i think we saw you waiting for the cops to show up as we were leaving.

I was over in that area and saw the guys, but I didn't hear or see any bottles being thrown (although it did smell like they were burning something plastic or rubber), so I didn't really realize what was going on until we saw the cop car.

it'll be nice if the broken glass supply chain dries up for a while. (the other guys that we're down at silver bullet seemed to be under the impression that all the broken corona bottles at the bottom of the new buttress were the work of whomever had cleaned the routes).

anyway, good work. just sorry you've had to deal with the brunt of this yourself.

 

 

by the way, where'd the poison oak come from? I think there's some poison oak up at the top of some of the breakfast crack climbs...

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I would've come out and joined y'all, but I went out yesterday to do some leading with Seth, and I'm still sore. =/

 

Anyone up for thursday or friday? If not I'll just go to the gym and see if my training route has been set yet... =)

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We looked for you tonight BTW. I have a better story I'll tell in the next frame.

 

Sorry couldn't leave work until 6:00 and the traffic on the cams looked horrendous on I-205.

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Hola Hemp, wave.gif I saw you guys too but didn't know who you were! There were some other people over at the top of video as well just finishing up and they didn't see this go down either. It has to be well in excess of 200 bottles over the edge (judging from the empty carboard Corona and Henrys containers) and busted up since the access fund clean up not quite 2 months ago. Pretty amazing.

 

 

I was over in that area and saw the guys, but I didn't hear or see any bottles being thrown (although it did smell like they were burning something plastic or rubber), so I didn't really realize what was going on until we saw the cop car. it'll be nice if the broken glass supply chain dries up for a while. (the other guys that we're down at silver bullet seemed to be under the impression that all the broken corona bottles at the bottom of the new buttress were the work of whomever had cleaned the routes).

__________________________________________________________

Nah, not me, I've cleaned up too much crap out there to now start busting a bunch of bottles on my routes so that I can cut my fingers ala Iggy Pop while I climb. (Iggy Pop had a stage act-rock show where he would often rip his shirt off and roll around onstage on broken glass). Beside that, I can assure you that if it had been me there would be NO Henrys bottles, just microbrew bottles and some 2 buck chuck tossed as well.

________________________________________________________

anyway, good work. just sorry you've had to deal with the brunt of this yourself.

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Thanks Hemp, but it wasn't me by myself, although I tried to work it out with these guys. In the end I couldn't do it on my own, and I'm embarrassed to admit that until I thought of calling the police I had worked through @ 10 different strategies... some involving firearms and a wicked nasty looking shorty tactical 12 ga. shotgun I possess. Stupid me. A simple phone call and I get unlimited firepower and trained people with them as well.

_______________________________________________________

 

 

by the way, where'd the poison oak come from? I think there's some poison oak up at the top of some of the breakfast crack climbs...

 

Theres plenty all over at the Butte, but I was out at Beacon Tuesday with Bryan (Powderhound). It looked like a carpet even in the deeping gloom of twilight. We climbed first 2P of YW, and first 2P of Cruisemaster/Corner. The oak is right off trail below Cruisemaster. See Ivans line

beacon was awful phat 2day - u folx n'your heroine habitat no doubt could Sense The Stoke
, he was there too, and a brief interpretation of his sentence is that it was pretty good, and we probably knew that already.

______________________________________________________

 

Thanks Allison, you guys were fun too, love to set up routes with you. Join in anytime. Sorry to hear about the cigarette but being thrown on you, these guys toss butts down as well. BTW, Sometimes I will just wander over to a crack while waiting for a turn to climb and will stuff gear in just because I like to do it. You are welcome to do that as well. I will endevor to spell your name correctly from here on out..................but if I could just remember my kids birthdays now........ yelrotflmao.gif

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