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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night


John Frieh

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My preference is mono vertical but honestly it doesnt matter... just bring whatever you use in the alpine and check it out... learning how to do it on top rope instead of in the alpine is a better strategy IMO. I can post the dos and donts later

 

How does the evening of Dec 9 or 10th work for people?

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You guys rule for gettin' on it all winter.

 

Small note: I think we may have discussed this. I did not trundle the obvious block on top where you dry tool, and although I only got up to the Butte maybe 5 times this year, it did appear at some point someone has been digging behind that boulder. I have a distinct feeling that it would roll without too much work. Sooo, I guess you guys can figure out if you want to avoid it or roll it. I once rolled a rock one winter (best time, as the leaves are off the trees for good visibility and there is less folks around as well) with a spotter at the base with a walkie talkie to give me the "all clear" (Dan Forester). Seemed like a pretty good strategy. He wandered around the base area looking for folks to make very very sure no one was there. That rock was @1/4 of the size of your block and was still very impressive in the trail of destruction it left. The part that surprised me, it was on the very top of Tiger Paws. I'd climbed that route many times-many many folks have, then boing/ out of the blue one day there's a small boulder right at the top out that use to be a solid grip and now it's rocking out 6" right above you when you get the same finger lock that use to be solid.

 

Point, be careful but have fun:-) Dress warm.

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Does dry tooling scar the rock in anyway?

 

Yes. Serious questions deserve serious answers. This pic from the John Frieh Rocky Butte collection should get you to ruminating on some of the flakes these tools may have pulled off. Look at the ground.

 

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I'm kidding. They climb routes which they FA developed with and for tools. Like John said.

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  • 1 month later...
Sorry to disappoint but this is not a thread about getting together and pooling money for a group rate on a hooker in NE… smileysex5.gif (but what you do afterwards is your business)

 

This is a thread for anyone who:

 

- has come to the conclusion that though you spent way more on a pair of ice tools than just about any other piece of equipment you own (rock shoes, etc) you use them way less (if not the least) cry.gif

 

- has decided that the best place to learn how to dry tool is probably on TR and not 30’ above a bullshit picket somewhere off route on Hood

 

- would like to the chance to “accidentally” drop an ice tool on mine or anyone else’s head from this site you find annoying and/or stupid (sorry I can’t guarantee Iain is going to show hahaha.gifboxing_smiley.gifwink.gif)

 

- need a reason to justify buying new crampons to the wife (look… they’re bent! and dull! please?!?)

 

- are a cute single female who finds bandanas and/or leather vests attractive and additionally has googled the name Michael Layton prior to attending (google block!)

 

- are a scrawny 140 lb boulder who in lieu of the fact that you post numerous pics of your crimp fest exploits and could out crank anyone from this site (if the approach isn’t longer than ¼ mile) for the life of you still can’t seem to impress fellow lady climbers and need to find a more impressive type of climbing wink.gifmoon.gif

 

- are burnt out on the gym cantfocus.gif

 

- is just interested in trying out dry tooling… no prior experience required! wazzup.gif

 

Back to thew Basics: its time to bring out the gore tex and the tools. I am living in the area and would like to try and get some dry tooling in on a regular basis. Maybe find some new rock to clean up. PM me if you have any free time to stick your picks.

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