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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night


John Frieh

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I'm glad some of you are keeping this thread going with the advent of spring here in Portland. I had good intentions of making it out last year, but never quite sealed the deal.

 

Here's to thrashing up some rock this spring with new partners. :brew:

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Anyone doing this tonight? I haven't been on this cliff this year, but Ujhan got up there at the Butte last weekend and said it was in fact - very slimy, and dirty. Some of us wusses need to get off the couch and chalk the f*cking shit out of this cliff to dry it off. ...Or at least try to cling on much like a slug on a ice cube.

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Thanks for the invite: you 2 would be the most excellent cats meow to hang with, and I'm sure the Zone would be much better this time of year than the Butte: however, I was sketched on time, trying to hit the Couve cross over during rush hour sucks. I don't know how some people do that twice a day every day.

 

As it was, we got in @ 5 quick laps and it was good. Just Ujhan, Troy and I.

 

Hopefully next time.

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nice - we raged w/ denalidave - did whatever that cool trad thing is left of the mountie route that leads to the one pin bouldery hard thing to the cool ledge - did the very hard/steep hard thing above that, then when doing a tr lap on it via what seemed an alternative i kicked off a number of belay and dog slayers, using my head to pin a football sized rock against the cliff for a bit while searching for spike the puppy - think it freaked geoff and dave a bit more than me. finished w/ that moderate 10 next to the crumbling - what a cool route!

 

nice n' damp on the approach trail - was stoked to avoid spilling my coffee while slip'n'slide'n'on-down

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some of the walls at broughton have routes that will dry out quickly, or even stay totally dry while it's raining....But all of the walls there also have spots that are effected by seepage and take a long time to dry out.

 

but for climbing without any wet rock, i wouldn't hold out much hope for either broughton or ozone this weekend...

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I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

 

Do it Frank, please consider this official permission.

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I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

was it carrots for everybody, the .10 to the left of the big tree that's right against the wall (there was an old shirt there up till last weekend)? saw a big rock scar there last thursday.

 

i don't know that it's freeze/thaw - just that the rock at ozone is oft questionable - most of the trad lines there are damn heady given the block, craptacular nature of what the pro's resting on - i felt giblets and gravy in my drawers the other day when doing kevbone's methrage - the climbings not all that hard, but the possibilty of a tragedy as a result of a fall palpable...

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