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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night


John Frieh

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Please do be careful with all you're winter toys out there!!! It's already been a pretty high accident rate in PDX over the past two weeks. Everyone take some extra precautions at this point...

 

I suspect that although he has a masters degree and has been all over those tools last few years, John might not have known this yelrotflmao.gif

 

My kids are trying to break me of the habit of repeating cautionary tales to them of things they already have heard 200 times.

 

I'm proud to say I'm getting better at it.

 

I already almost burned off one long time partner who was cruising a 2nd pitch crack directly above me by suggesting (3 times no less) "hmmmmm, good place for some pro?" Dude climbs higher..........."Uhhhhh, ya might want to put some pro in", I get ignored, but thinking he might not have heard say, dudes still climbing up: "Hey, little run out up there?" ,. He waited until we were down to give me the famous Frank Sacerrer line which is basically "shut the fuck up with all that talk about pro. You use to climb better than me but now you don't cause your fat and old. " Couldn't argue with that! I was too shocked to tell him that I was more concerned with my ass than his, fearful that I'd get slammed into like a bouldering mat if he fell off as I was stuck directly underneath him, hanging on my gear. cantfocus.gif

 

Sighhhh,

 

Good luck with it. BTW, I'm open to all advice still and since I need to climb up on the roof when it drys off I will take that message to heart. wink.gif

 

BTW, new thread when springtime comes? I'll try to add some stars here too.

 

happy holidays to all

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Alright kids... I'm feeling my age (okay... maybe older than my age yellaf.gif) over this back thing so I am going to cancel tonight and try to reschedule later in the week. cry.gif

 

With that said you guys know where the routes are... no need for me to be present for you kids to get out. wazzup.gif

 

Stay tuned for rescheduled nights wave.gif

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can anyone be out there more like 330 or so? we could go ahead and get some tr's set up for the slow-puke-cubicle-fawks...if it's not till 5 i gotta go home first and that always throws a large element of uncertainity into the equation

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Full house tonight... the details reprinted for the newbies...

 

Where:

Drive to Rocky Butte. After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Just before the rock wall starts (on your right side) park... look for a silver pickup. Cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk on the main trail that runs along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!). If you start to head significantly downhill you have gone too far.

 

Your other option is to call me when you get there: 503.758.5772

 

For reference we will be near the silver bullet wall.

 

What to bring:

 

- helmet

- harness with belay device and daisy chain

- ice tools if you have them. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem.

- crampons: if you don’t have them but want to borrow let me know.

- boots: leathers or plastic. What ever you bring make sure you can get pons on them. IF YOU DON'T HAVE BOOTS bring rock shoes.

- headlamp.

- getting dirty clothes... carhartts are great

- beverage of choice (thermos of hot coffee is highly recommended and a good way to make friends and send hard shit )

- either tight fitting gloves or a lot of tape and band aids

 

With everything you bring don’t bother with your fancy stuff… its muddy and most likely wet… no reason to trash your goretex taking swingers… insulated Carhartts work great. This especially applies to gloves… you will beat on them so what ever they are make sure they aren’t your new pair.

 

What to do prior to showing up:

- pm me and let me know you’re coming so I can determine how many TRs we need

- if your crampons have two front bail positions move the bail back so you get as much front point showing as possible (and make sure your pons are sized to the boots you plan on wearing)

- remove your adze unless you are brave enough to cam it

- if you have multiple picks put in your most beat up pair… they should be negative-clearance picks… don’t sweat the point of the tool being sharp… just make sure the initial set of teeth are somewhat sharp. If you have your choice put in 4mm picks. Bring an extra pick just in case

- take off your antibott plates (especially if you have plastic ones like those on the sarkens)… they unfortunately don’t keep the used condoms from balling up on your pons.

 

Finally: Don't leave anything of value in your car. If you bring stuff (laptop, etc) in your car plan on packing it down to the climbing area with you.

 

Call or pm me w/ q's: 503.758.5772 yoda.gif

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Next DT session: Tuesday Jan 10th

 

5 pm - ???

 

PM or call me (503.758.5772) if you are attending and if you need to borrow anything.

 

If Tuesday sucks for people I am willing to reschedule or have a second session this week but you need to speak up! Anybody?

 

Bring a headlamp and wear your crappy clothes... it's going to be muddy yoda.gifwazzup.gif

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