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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night


John Frieh

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Doug's pics from Sunday:

 

Hoodie N Face (Yes it is coming in for some fall action!)

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Camilo gets his first taste of ice

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The bitch wishing for some rock to drytool cry.gifyellaf.gif

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FYI: the ice lines Ivan named Triple C last year have started forming but with the recent weather will likely dissappear unless the freezing level drops this week. Still some nice fall WI should be coming in! If anyone goes up there could they report conditions in either this thread or perhaps start one in the ice climbing forum?

 

Finally I am headed up there this weekend. If you are interested in going (either day) get a hold of me!

 

ICE rockband.gif

 

Anyone planning to do this again this weekend ?

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vw4ever was up there last weekend and DonnV was up there Tuesday of the week before... not sure if they are headed up again.

 

If the weather sucks everywhere I'd be game to go but if the weather is good I am headed out of town.

 

Hey vw4ever! Got any pics of the WI lines on the ridge? Any touching down yet?

 

Anybody else for this weekend?

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Just a reminder - Broughton Bluff Adopt-a-Crag this Sunday.

 

Some more detailed info about what will be going on:

 

9:30 AM - 1:00-ish, with time to climb during and after the cleanup.

Focus will be on erosion control at Hanging Gardens wall (getting in some posts & beams where the ground is falling away at the high-use area underneath Edges & Ledges and the Sickle.), and also at Nettle removal beyond Spring Rock.

Access Fund will provide Nalgenes, Snacks, and Sunscreen.

Bring clothes for the weather, and bring work gloves.

 

Forecast looks like it'll be a beautiful day on Sunday.

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vw4ever was up there last weekend and DonnV was up there Tuesday of the week before... not sure if they are headed up again.

 

If the weather sucks everywhere I'd be game to go but if the weather is good I am headed out of town.

 

Hey vw4ever! Got any pics of the WI lines on the ridge? Any touching down yet?

 

Anybody else for this weekend?

 

As I'm sure you've all guessed, with the warm weather, the ice lines are history; when I was up there last week, they'd begun to form a bit; been too warm for them to hang around. Nothing up there was worth taking pictures of.

 

Looks like the weather is sucking ass this next weekend. I know I have Friday through Monday off to get some drytooling done, unless the weather clears up enough to head up to the Eliot, then I'd be game for that, too.

 

Oleg, if you read this, ideas? I don't think our plans for our climb would work out, with the forecast...but I did get some schweet recon photos for you if you want 'em wink.gif

 

Y'all let me know what the plans are for this weekend.

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Anybody for Tuesday? Rock, dry tool whatever. I could make beacon too maybe...

 

Holla 541-231-2062

 

As I'm sure you've all guessed, with the warm weather, the ice lines are history; when I was up there last week, they'd begun to form a bit; been too warm for them to hang around.

 

Maybe... though the warm weather during the day does impact what has formed it is the over night temps and freezing level that dictate what is forming. As it has been fairly cold the past week there is a good chance stuff might be coming in.

 

In the end someone needs to hike up there. I might tomorrow if no one can go crag.

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Drytool tonight (9.28) 4 pm - pump. wazzup.gif

 

Park at far end of crag (near the tunnel that goes under the road); look for my silver snugtop.gif.

 

If you need to borrow any gear let me know in advance.

 

You need:

-harness w/ belay device, daisy chain

-helmet

-boots

-crampons

-ice tools

-headlamp?

 

I might only be belaying as my hands are currently swollen to quasimodo proportions pitty.gif thanks in part to a double exposure to poison oak last week and a wasp run in today. Speaking of there is a wasp nest in the bushes right above Tiger Paws... or at least for the next 24 - 48 hours. All you bitches gonna die! boxing_smiley.gif

 

Hope to see some new faces out at DT night both this week and this winter. wave.gif

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So far I have 6 showing up! w000000t!

 

We will be climbing c. 150’ climbers left of the silver bullet wall. If you don’t know where this is just follow these instructions:

 

After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building (look for a silver pickup).

 

I plan to hang out at my truck for a little bit so look for me. If you get there much later than 4 just follow these directions:

 

Cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk c. 100’ along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!)

 

If this fails just call me on my cell: 541-231-2062. If I don't answer it is because I am climbing!

 

And if you can't make it till 5 no worries... we should be there for awhile!

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what area of the Butte are you guys climbing at anyway??

 

The bulk of the routes are at the far end... on either side of silver bullet. I have recently begun new route development but a wasp's nest put a temporary suspension in my activities madgo_ron.gif

 

I have an extremely open, flexible schedule so if you can find some time during the week that you want a tour give me a shout... I'd be stoked to show anybody around. wave.gif

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