Fence_Sitter Posted October 14, 2002 Share Posted October 14, 2002 true true...its just a website guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 14, 2002 Share Posted October 14, 2002 Another magazine gripe of mine: Â The magazines and the whole industry have a huge love of climbers from Colorado or Utah. If you aren't from those places you ain't dirt. Â Don't believe me? if you are bored at work, whip out any issue and count pictures and articles affiliated with those climbers. Â Sure the pure waterfall ice and pure sport rock abilities of the avg climber from UT or Co is a bit higher but all and all we WA, OR, and British Columbia climbers are not quite cool enough or "hard" enough for them when in fact we climb much more like our European Uber-brethren than those UT or Co people. Â [ 10-14-2002, 04:47 PM: Message edited by: Jens ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotch-a-Go-Go Posted October 14, 2002 Share Posted October 14, 2002 Always loved to hear Chris rant on Climbing. Â [ 10-14-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: Scotch-a-Go-Go ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 14, 2002 Share Posted October 14, 2002 Â Â [ 10-14-2002, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Jens ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott_J Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Jens, its always been that way. I have been climbing since 72. Even then if you were not from "The Valley" or UT or CO you were not shit. That is why Off Belay came out as the local climbing rag for a few years. By the way Dr. FA most people think I am an ass hole and most ass holes like me. If that makes Cavey an ass hole then it is written. I have always been and will always be abrasive. If you survive being a friend of mine for one year then you are one for life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 I think in the "old days" it wasn't cool to be from Utah, you had to be from Colorado and go climbing in Utah. Climbing (the magazine) has always been based in CO, same deal for R&I. I recall being psyched when Climbing first came out, because up until then all we had was the odd American report in Mountain (British mag for those unfamiliar). Being a Californian at the time, the Colorado bias swiftly became apparent, but the two states have never really been a mutual admiration society. Off Belay and Summit were cool because they were so much less ambitious, seemingly more the vision of folks not so impressed with themselves: geeky sometimes but it didn't seem like they kept one one on the mirror all the time. Anybody remember Moutain Gazette? It was more arty, a big newsprint magazine. If I ever get those bookshelves done I'll have to exhume the old collection from it's dusty carboard cartons. Â As far as the current crop goes, it doesn't offend me to look at it now and then, but it doesn't really move me to own it either. I do like a nice picture now and then though. My main climbing reading these last years has been guidebooks, sometimes piled up 4 or 5 deep next to the bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Sounds like Gestapo tactics............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Off White: Anybody remember Moutain Gazette? It was more arty, a big newsprint magazine. If I ever get those bookshelves done I'll have to exhume the old collection from it's dusty carboard cartons. Mountain Gazette was/is a most excellent publication. It's been reborn www.mountaingazette.com and's working it's way up to the level it was in the past. If your wishing of the old days, this past summer a collection of the best of mountain gazette cameout too. Â As for Colorado - who needs it. Â [ 10-14-2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 great, thanks for the link! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Hey flash I drop coils on you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 colorado sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hey flash I want your autograph Eloquent as always ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: I know I must admit that I am a wimpy scrawny sport climber. My twisted hippie mind yearns for bleeding heart liberalism. I can't really climb anything but I claim to. Â I wish I could be a mountain climber but I am too much of a wussy to try it. Â Please do the world a favor and shoot me between the eyes. Now you are coming to Flash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 If the content of the mag bothers so many people why read it. People gripe for the sake of gripping. It's like all those people who complain about starbucks and how they dominate the world blah blah blah, but go there because "the coffee at the gas station is so gross". Â If it bothers you don't read it, buy it, or support it. If it really bother you enough, mobilize your illiterate self, write and article and submit it. Send them a TR every week and maybe they will start to see what's goin on up here. Â ALPINIST, seems to be a good, new publication. No ads (thus the high sticker price) and good articles, big and glossy. I have only read the first issue but it seems pretty good. You can download the first issue as a PDF Â Alpinist Magazine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: I know I must admit that I am a wimpy scrawny sport climber. My twisted hippie mind yearns for bleeding heart liberalism. I can't really climb anything but I claim to.  I wish I could be a mountain climber but I am too much of a wussy to try it.  Please do the world a favor and shoot me between the eyes. Now you are coming to Flash  Actually, Caveman, with the exception of the hippie crap (never) and the death wish, you've pretty much got it there.  To bleeding heart sport weenyism! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jens: Another magazine gripe of mine: Â The magazines and the whole industry have a huge love of climbers from Colorado or Utah. If you aren't from those places you ain't dirt. Â Don't believe me? if you are bored at work, whip out any issue and count pictures and articles affiliated with those climbers. Â Sure the pure waterfall ice and pure sport rock abilities of the avg climber from UT or Co is a bit higher but all and all we WA, OR, and British Columbia climbers are not quite cool enough or "hard" enough for them when in fact we climb much more like our European Uber-brethren than those UT or Co people. I like to watch the Colorado and Utah climbers navigate slide alder, devil's club, gnarly stream crossings and all the other neat stuff that is special to us Cascade Climbers. Maybe that's what keeps them in Colorado and Utah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jon: Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? As soon as the NW community gets enough to write about, it will happen. When was the last time someone did something noble in the PNW? When will we see more than a handful of FA's or FFA's in a year? Who will be the next Peter Croft, Greg Child, Pete Doorish, Fred Beckey or Paul Boving? Â As of today, I know no one (Well maybe I do but no one flashing 5.10+ alpine first ascents.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: quote:Originally posted by jon: Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? As soon as the NW community gets enough to write about, it will happen. When was the last time someone did something noble in the PNW? When will we see more than a handful of FA's or FFA's in a year? Who will be the next Peter Croft, Greg Child, Pete Doorish, Fred Beckey or Paul Boving?  As of today, I know no one (Well maybe I do but no one flashing 5.10+ alpine first ascents.) There aint gonna be one if losers keep retrobolting crack pitches. Shit man even lil gaper me has onsighted 10c in the alpine on a FA, think up a better troll  [ 10-15-2002, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: There aint gonna be one if losers keep retrobolting crack pitches. Shit man even lil gaper me has onsighted 10c in the alpine on a FA, think up a better troll SPRAY ALERT! SPRAAAYYYYERRRR!!! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 I dont think a magazine should have to show only the latest new difficult climbs. I like moderates as I would guess most people would. Great sharma did 5.15 b well it aint gonna make my day. Â Seeing a peak or route I never knew about etc that is doable gets me more excited than any 5.13+ flashed alpine route to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 I agree with you Dru. I know no one who goes ground up with full intentions of aiding a hard free line on a first ascent.If it looks like too much work, it's gettin rap bolted. Especially if it needs cleaning. Â Sorry Dru but there are plenty of 5.10 trad climbers in the PNW but not enough climbing them for the first time. Â If you are REALLY onsighting 5.10+ alpine trad routes, my hat is off to you. Â [ 10-15-2002, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: I agree with you Dru. I know no one who goes ground up with full intentions of aiding a hard free line on a first ascent.If it looks like too much work, it's gettin rap bolted. Especially if it needs cleaning. Â Sorry Dru but there are plenty of 5.10 trad climbers in the PNW but not enough climbing them for the first time. Â If you are REALLY onsighting 5.10+ alpine trad routes, my hat is off to you. Well 10b is not 10+ keep your hat on. You can take it off to, lets see, Jamie Chong, Connie Amelunxen, Shaun Neufeld, Guy Edwards, Craig McGee and his buddy Patrick (or maybe its Pat McGee and Craig?) those guys have all done alpine 5.10+ FAs in the last year. And Jordan and Mike Layton also did 5.10b. So thats 8 people I can think of at a drop of a hat so there are probably about 50 out there doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 Last season Jens and Ben did a 5.10 route on Nooksack Tower.... Â I know plenty of people that can climb 5.10 Alpine but there just are not too many superb lines left. Seems like Beckey and Nelson mopped most of em up already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 It seems like if people either alerted the mags that they were climbing stuff in this neck o' the woods, it would get in there. Either that or if someone wrote an article about climbers or climbing or climbs in the PNW. Â The mags are full of Dean Potters and Dave Grahams because those folks have a name for themselves, and news travels quick about them (or, in the case of Graham, there seems to be some sort of press corps assigned to him). And of course a lot of these climbers are sponsored, so they are going to make sure their names keep showing up in the mags in order to collect the $$$ and the free gear (like the self-portrait photo of Dean Potter atop Cerro Torre(?) recently where he's holding up his [name brand] ice axe off to the side of his head -- product placement, baby!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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