CraigA Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 So hey, is it just the angle or does the dude on the cover of the guide book "Portland Rock Climbs" have his last draw (the one by his left foot) "back-clipped"? It looks like the draw is hanging to the left of the bolt while he is climbing to the right of it, so did it just flip around or is it wrong? I'm just starting to lead so I'm checking out this kind of thing. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 craig ... the clip is fine ... think of it this way ... if he was to fall the rope has very little chance of crossing over the gate and unclipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Well it depends on when you think you are going to fall most when traversing. Think about it... If you are traversing past an anchor... do you clip it one way or the other? According to petzl you will be wrong one way or the other eventually unlessth route alwyas traverses one way or the other. You can't win unless it's a perfect up and down route [ 10-09-2002, 08:17 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimpy Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 I clip draws all the time in places where either by my movement or some gravitational satanic time vortex annomoly (aka. rope drag) the dang thing wants to spin around no matter how I clip it. If it is in a spot that scares me I will sometimes throw a second draw on it (reversed of course). Anybody personaly know anyone who has taken a fall on a back-clip resulting in a uncliped rope? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 I have, on occasion, witnessed carabiners unclip themselves, but I have never had this occur in conjunction with a fall. If a leader can tell this is going to be an issue at a particular clip, he/she can always choose to double the krabs (gates opposed) or use a locker for that clip. -Curt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneriver Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Gimpy: Anybody personaly know anyone who has taken a fall on a back-clip resulting in a uncliped rope? Just wondering. When climbing in Mexico, I met up with a guy named Pollo that grounded from 60 ft due to a back-clipped draw. He was in the hospital for about a year, paralyzed for 3 months and blind for 6 months. He recovered nearly 100%, but hadn't been able to get back on a rope yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: quote:Originally posted by Gimpy: Anybody personaly know anyone who has taken a fall on a back-clip resulting in a uncliped rope? Just wondering. When climbing in Mexico, I met up with a guy named Pollo that grounded from 60 ft due to a back-clipped draw. He was in the hospital for about a year, paralyzed for 3 months and blind for 6 months. He recovered nearly 100%, but hadn't been able to get back on a rope yet. After a fall like that you would think he'd use a rope while climbing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneriver Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: After a fall like that you would think he'd use a rope while climbing... Naw... didn't do him any good the first time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimpy Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Hey gimpy, find a new pic man, this one is mine! I found it first, so in the words of a great mind "Nah nan neener neener!!" If I had the savy to bring in some pics of my own I would but my computer illteracy overwhelms me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 wahtever dood! I been the skull since jon added these silly pictures, get lost! [ 10-10-2002, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted October 11, 2002 Share Posted October 11, 2002 Yeah, and don't anybody get the idea of using the Snaffle icon anymore either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 11, 2002 Share Posted October 11, 2002 Hey gimpy, find a new pic man, this one is mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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