Heinouscling Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Has anybody done this route at Smith Rox? I did it yesterday and found the crux to be rather pissin hard. Just wondering if its still 12a, or was I being a weeny. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Its a little bit intimidating...but still .12a... There's a slight right hand movement to skip the original crux of going straight up that slightly softens the route, but its still sustained nubs to the top...Also, this weekend was smokin' hot, probably not the best time to try that thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Yesterday was great chasin' shade in the gorge I was actualy a bit chilly most of the day and had long sleaves on I know... you don't care we should have a secret cc.com wave so we know eachother without asking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 i agree the front side was not the place to be...we trundled up cocaine gulley and played chase the shade until it cooled down in the frontside... i think i saw you in the parking lot w/ Tex...but not sure since i've only seen photos of ya on the website... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 howd the run go yesterday???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 next time say something silly!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Hey Erik... The wife rocked!! She came in at 4 hours 9 minutes and 53 seconds...this after having a baby 7 months ago and losing a month because of a C-section...I was stoked to see her go and she definitely paid her dues this summer... Now, if i can only get her back to climbing...its been 7 years so i'm not holding my breath...but one can hope!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by RuMR: Hey Erik... The wife rocked!! She came in at 4 hours 9 minutes and 53 seconds...this after having a baby 7 months ago and losing a month because of a C-section...I was stoked to see her go and she definitely paid her dues this summer... Now, if i can only get her back to climbing...its been 7 years so i'm not holding my breath...but one can hope!! AWESOME....I THINK I WOULD RUN THAT THING IN ABOUT 4 DAYS!!! DID THE LAST 3 KILL YOU?? HEH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Uhhhh Now I know who you are you did see me, but with JK not tex, tex didn't show up for a while after you left congrats to your wife she rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Yeah...I was turning blue trying to get her back climbing...oh well, gasp ...inhale...breathe and move on...I still like climbing and always will... How was your foray to the gorge?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 quote: Uhhhh Now I know who you are you did see me, but with JK not tex, tex didn't show up for a while after you left congrats to your wife she rocks! Ok...I'll play...where did you see me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 you stoped in the parking lot to talk to erik on your way out with a big pack you were on you way out so you could see your wife run the next day... I was standing right there, eating trail mix I think next to my hubby JK with erik, and either TimL was there or he showed up shortly there after. Shred was there as was Mustang sally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Well I guess I owe you a "HELLO"... Yep...the guy i was supposed to climb w/ bailed on me and now currently has a bounty posted on his pin head...Tim stepped in and I had a great day craggin' w/ him...kinda outta shape, but i'm working on that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
666 Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Hey look it's weenie boy that is scared to climb at Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Ya, out of shape is that what you call that??? oh and hello back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Hi 666... Welcome back...i was feeling lonely w/o you... Sorry i stood you up for index...but work reared its head (lame excuse but real)...then off to yosemite... I'll catch you out there one day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Smiff, as alway, rocked this weekend. Rumar - good climbing with you and Paul on saturday. By chance did you find an extra gri-gri in your backpack? i lost mine on Saturday. Had an awesome day on Sunday climbing with Erik and the Smiff rock posse in the lower gorge. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 hey tim...I'll look when i get home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Hey RuMr Have you tried Power in your eyes? That is sick hard. Sound like I missed a fun weekend. Did you work "French Connection"? I'll be working it next weekend before my trip to Vegas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Hey rg2k...I have done that one, its hard and kinda has a nasty fall for your ankle if you aren't careful...gotta wait for cold for it... No, went up into cocaine and stayed there until it cooled...it was a mob scene on the front side... When are you next getting down there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 This weekend - then off to Vegas. Got a partner for The Original Route & Levitation 29! Schwing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I did take a powder once a long long time ago. I hung on a bolt or two. All I remember was that is was not a route for soft shoes. As a mountin climber I only go to smith about once every three years -So my memory is faded but speaking of stout 12A's, Freebase seemed really hard for the grade. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Jens, is there anything you haven't done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Jens: I did take a powder once a long long time ago. I hung on a bolt or two. All I remember was that is was not a route for soft shoes. As a mountin climber I only go to smith about once every three years -So my memory is faded but speaking of stout 12A's, Freebase seemed really hard for the grade. Any thoughts? Hey, I have a thought on that one. My thought is that it's fairly representative of a 12a, but somewhat crimpy and technical, yet most everything at Smith is somewhat crimpy and technical. So in other words, it seems to me fairly representative of a Smith 12a. At Index it might be 11c. At Little Si it might be 13a. [ 10-07-2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: sexual chocolate ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Is that why if I go to smith I always get spanked on the first day? Is the bouldering thing keeping crowds down at smith these days? I have a friend that climbs at rifle a lot and says that since this pad culture thing took off rifle has become a ghost town relative to what it once was. Speaking of bouldering, I've been jumpin into the bouldering rotation with some of these young pad toters. They are friggin' strong! What was considered powerfull six or seven years ago is now passe. Endurance hasn't really changed but these 18-19 year olds have some steel fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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