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Team members for Denali South Buttress May 2005


erewhon

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Erewhon – This is a serious question, not a troll. Why would you consider going on such a big serious climb with a group of people you met over the internet? So you know where I’m coming from, my three goals for any climbing expedition, in order of importance are:

 

1) come back alive

2) come back friends

3) come back having succeeded on the climbing objective

 

It seems to me that the first two are wholly dependent on the quality of your partners. My experience is that technical competence, while obviously important, is the least important factor in successful trips to big ranges.

 

None of my business, really, but I wonder why you aren’t simply planning this trip with one or two friends who you already trust and know you can get along with for a month? You might have some very good reasons, but one wouldn’t know from reading your post.

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I've been on two expeditions with people I hadn't met beforehand. One involved three people sleeping in a 2.5person tent and on the other we were stuck in a tent for 5 days during a storm. Things worked out fine.

 

Maybe I'm just easy to get along with? laugh.gif

 

Just one positive anecdote to balance out the other.

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That is the best characteristic of the team player, Alpinefox.

To build a partner involves a lot of work and time. When you are done and ready for target, he got married and buys new BBQ (good deal in Wall-Mart), or switch to watch Hokey Night in Canada.

Sometimes you have to accept the risk to achieve the goal. Erewhon climbed Denali 3 times and has extensive experience. If he has inexperienced but ambitious members of the team and high level of discipline in the group, everything will be OK. Whoever signs should accept his standards.

Objective hazards are the same.

Mountain will select who will be on top.

Edited by Zoran
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Forrest:

I'm guessing that erewhon is fishing for experienced climbers who could very well be organizing the same trip of the same magnitute. But maybe they don't have any partners interested in the South Buttress. Between now and then, they could get in some climbing and a great partnership could be born.

 

I'm in the same boat looking for a someone for the Cassin in 06. Hell, you can't swing a stick in the PNW without hitting alpinist. He's probably got a chance of finding interested and competent individual.

Most of the one's on the east coast are in New England, 800 miles to my north.

ya lucky bastards!

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If I had it to do over, I would drop two climbers in a crevass at 13K. One stole TWO pairs of my gloves and couldn't carry his own pack to start with. The other was a tad hyper and fluxuated from nice to scary in a blink.

Definately would arrange a climb over the internet again but would say adios to anyone who didn't climb with me at least a few times beforehand. Once up Rainier was not enough. I would also carry a tazer.

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