teverline Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 My buddy and I are flying into Seattle on the 16th of Dec. and are planning doing some climbing on the Kautz Glacier and Wilson Headwall. We were hoping someone who has been up to the mountain recently could give us some insight into what the conditions look like. We could also use a general update as to what the road looks like getting into the park because we're probably going to be in a little crappy rental unit. Any info is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 My buddy and I are flying into Seattle on the 16th of Dec. and are planning doing some climbing on the Kautz Glacier and Wilson Headwall. We were hoping someone who has been up to the mountain recently could give us some insight into what the conditions look like. We could also use a general update as to what the road looks like getting into the park because we're probably going to be in a little crappy rental unit. Any info is much appreciated. Â bring chains otherwise you might get screwed and not allowed to go up to paradise . Â Dec climbs will probably amount to you getting completely fucked with bad weather or bad avy conditions. have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 The road to Paradise gets plowed, however, they can still require chains and will turn you around if you don't have them. Â There is three feet of snow at Paradise right now. Snow cover on the upper part of the mountain on the south side is typically thin in December due to the fact that the prevailing winds strip the snow off that side. Crevasses can be very thinly covered. Additionally, sastrugi can make crevasses very difficult to detect. Â Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 (edited) Dec climbs will probably amount to you getting completely fucked with bad weather or bad avy conditions. have fun. Â I did not want to sound completey negative, but griz pretty well summed it up. Edited December 6, 2004 by danielpatricksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Both the Wilson Headwall and Kautz Glacier have been climbed in the winter...however, they are rarely done. Don't hesitate to default onto the Muir route if there's been a lot of snow...or the weather or avi forcasts are not favorable. Â If you're up there...camped in the "usual highcamps" for those two routes...and a lot of snow comes in, your escape route...well, is prolly f-ed. Â It's sorta common to cut over...from the Muir snowfield...across the Nisqually...through a gunsight notch...onto the F Finger/Wilson/Kautz. If you make a highcamp on the Muir snowfield...you will actually leave your options open for many routes that way (including all the Muir routes, plus the routes you're interested in doing). Â Just a few ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Bring a map, compass, and altimeter, or a GPS, and know how to use them, especially in a white-out. Be careful wandering around the edge of the Muir snowfield when looking for that gunsight. A lot of folks find the "fast way down" over there, usually in white-out conditions, every coupla years or so, if'n you get my meaning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 All good advice. A guy my mom knows disapeared on the hike up to Camp Muir one winter a number of years ago. They still have not found his body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 (edited) I've been around rainier a fair bit in winter. There are no guarantees. It could go easy, it could go bad. If you are really looking for a great winter climb try mount baker via any route. Out of a 12 or so trys I have only walked away twice. Here is a TR from a few years back that will give you a good idea of what a winter ascent in good conditions is like on rainier(and what could go wrong) Rainier Climb Edited December 7, 2004 by AllYouCanEat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafflehound Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 My buddy and I are flying into Seattle on the 16th of Dec. and are planning doing some climbing on the Kautz Glacier and Wilson Headwall. Man plans,God laughs. Good luck, have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted December 10, 2004 Share Posted December 10, 2004 (edited) Typically the Gibraltar Ledges are done in the winter as the simplest summit route. More info may be found in the Mt. Rainier forum here . Being high on the Kautz or Wilson and having bad weather could easily result in being trapped by the avy conditions getting back to the Nisqually, as others have said. There are a few variations near the Gib Ledges route that result in more excitement while still staying close to the std route and (more relative) safety. Plus there's a shelter at Muir so you don't have to worry about setting up your tent. Still bring one in case you can't make it all the way between Paradise and Muir, though. Sometimes the hut is buried and you have to dig for the entrance, though. Â But, that week may just be the best week ever. It's looking up as you're arriving: Weather.Com MORA 10 Day . Not great, but not bad. Â Bear in mind that we're seeing big slide activity from the higher freezing level right now that my end up with raincrust everywhere. Add a little new powder on that, garnish with a couple feet of windslab and you've got some wild times. Â Catch up with a climbing ranger before you start hiking, maybe a couple. Ask if Kessler is around if you call in ahead of time and see what he thinks. Â Also, don't underestimate conditions driving to Paradise. Sometime the road is closed due to snowfall or avy concerns. Have a plan B and maybe C. Keep driving and do Hood if Paradise is inacessible. Edited December 10, 2004 by jaee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlofgren Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 I punched through/fell in six times crossing the Nisqually from the Muir snowfield to that "gunsight" notch that treknclime mentioned. It was May, but the conditions I think would be similar - unconsolidated snow over a honeycomb of cracks. Very tough to see the cracks in that area until you're right on top of them - literally. Be extra careful if you do that option. Â Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 I'll say go for it. You might get lucky and get a window. Les Schwab will allow you to return your unused chains on the way home. There is one in the town of South Hill 1.5 hours from Paradise-pick em' up on the way. Nov. and Dec. are the two hardest months for reading crevasse patterns around here. A third guy would be nice. Bring skis and expedition gear and give yourself plenty of extra days. Be ready for anything and don't forget avy stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Good thread. Â "Man plans, God laughs." I love that. Â So, if memory serves the deal at The Schwab is that you buy them now and if you haven't used them come March 30 (or something like that) then you can get a full refund. I bought a pair thinking this was a great deal. Well, it's been 6 years, I haven't used them and I still own them. Chains are like flares and jumper cables. You're glad you have them when you need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Anyone interested in West Ridge of Little T in winter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Looks like you guys might get a weather window! I'm with Jens: be smart and prepared but take a shot! Climb safe and good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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