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Peter_Puget

Season got you down?

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I think it's Phoenix Crack in Yosemite. First 13a ever climbed. FA by Ray Jardine, 1977.

 

So his publicists would have you believe but apparently Pete Cleveland climbed Bagatelle (13a) before this.

 

EDIT: although the pundits at rockclimbing.com claim its only 12d, the Climbing mag article on Cleveland said that Lynn Hill and Todd Skinner thought it was 13a.

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Pete probably did, but I don't think he had led it by then, and Bagatelle isn't 13a. Pathetic that I know that, but DL was my home crag back when. You from the midwest, too, Dru?

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I don't know anyone who has actually done Bagatelle that confirm or deny the grade, except that Lynn signed a poster for me once and Paul Piana told me I should "live my life like a thrown knife". Have you done it jonah? I'm not from the midwest, if I was I'd talk funny like carolyn the_finger.gif

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Nope - never sent it. Climbed most of the 12s around it and in the years since I left 4 or 5 of my close friends have sent it mostly out of boredom because they had done everything else. Most of them felt it was 13a, too, until they sent it, then said it wasn't. It's kind of hard to rate things at the lake, I guess, because it's very old school and is a weird techy quartzite that you can really dial in, so by the time you send, the climbs feel several letters lower. But I know when I was a pup Bagatelle was rated "F11A," while most things that are considered 12 now were rated "F10." Who knows what that all meant. It is a cool place though, and if you can lead well there, you have a great head.

 

That was always the running joke there, though. After doing something and someone would ask you what it was, you'd say "11d, but Lynn Hill said it was 12c."

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how can the season possibly get you down, I've had 3 great weekends skiing.

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I like to think of it as finger-injury-recovery-season

 

that has been my season for the past year. i'm ready for a new season!

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