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Camilo

Portland Rock Gym cardio equipment

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How about making it inexpensive by not having any cardio equipment or yoga studio that almost nobody uses anyway.

 

Is it really going to be in St. Johns? That is such a long drive...

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I also heard a rumor last weekend that there's another climbing gym opening up in SE around 82nd. We'll see.

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I'm so glad I don't run a climbing gym in portland

 

No doubt ... it would be all 45-degree ramp slogs covered in pea gravel with a litter-hauling/z-drag setup area instead of a bouldering zone, with mandatory helmets and ascenders for all members. Instead of a lead test, they'd make you put on a full pack and then kick you into the artificial crevasse, and determine whether you could effectively self-rescue while the staff poured Slurpees down the rope and into your collar. Yeesh.

 

shocked.gif

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Johns Landing, not St. Johns, and not SE 82nd. We're shooting to open in April. A web site will be up soon and I will post the address here. Thanks.

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Yippee. John's Landing is a great location. I stopped my annual membership and started month to month at PRG in part because of these rumors.

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I'm so glad I don't run a climbing gym in portland

 

No doubt ... it would be all 45-degree ramp slogs covered in pea gravel with a litter-hauling/z-drag setup area instead of a bouldering zone, with mandatory helmets and ascenders for all members. Instead of a lead test, they'd make you put on a full pack and then kick you into the artificial crevasse, and determine whether you could effectively self-rescue while the staff poured Slurpees down the rope and into your collar. Yeesh.

 

shocked.gif

 

DFA, thats the 5 star post of the week!!! You read this stuff Iain? LFMAO! cantfocus.gifgrin.gif

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hah, yes. I'll have you know, DFA that not only have I been climbing the most sporto of routes at smith recently, I have even been receiving iBeta from the legendary hex-humping texplorer at times.

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hah, yes. I'll have you know, DFA that not only have I been climbing the most sporto of routes at smith recently, I have even been receiving iBeta from the legendary hex-humping texplorer at times.

 

YEAH? But are you wearing Lycra tights when ya do it? laugh.gif

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I’m board and have some time to type so here is my $0.02. At one time or another I have had a membership for three gyms in Portland and worked at the gym in Corvallis (no, not all at the same time). It has been probably 4 years sence I have had a membership at a gym so take this for what it is worth. Unfortunetly there where a lot of things I didn’t like. The routes didn’t get changed enough. It felt like months could go by and I would only see a couple of new routes. I know first hand what it takes to put up a good route. It is a lot more work that one might think. It is more than just bolting some plastic to a wall. That being said I don’t think it would be too much to ask for a hand full of well thought out, quality new routes every week. Especially if your talking about short boulder problems. The other head of the coin is please leave things up long enough we can work on them. It is rarely a problem but it kind of sucks to start working on a new problem and it disappears as fast as it was put up. I know there is a balance in there somewhere. Another big gripe I have is the lack or range of problems. When I was climbing at PRG there was usually one or to probmens in the V-extremely easy range (say 0-1). I didn’t see a decent number of problems until V-4 or harder. Not everyone pulls hard. Yes you can use your imagination and make up your own problems and what ever difuculty you want but it is also nice to be able to just follow the tape. I feel like easy (and a lot of not so easy) gym routes tend to be long pulls on big jugs. When I was putting up gym routes I tried very hard to put up routes that required more technique than muscle. I don’t think every wall needs to be steep. The old gym in Corvallis actually had a big slab. Just because it’s slabby doesn’t mean it has to be easy. As for cardio and/or yoga, I think a loud smelly rock gym is the LAST place I would want to do this. I have no idea what it costs to run a gym but membership fees do seem quite steep. Last I heard when Costco became Club Sports or what ever it is now, the fees went form spendy to through the roof. Light is a good thing. Stone gardens always feels like I’m climbing in a dungin. As much as I hate to admit it the gym is as much of a social hour as it is a work out. A place to hang out, read old mag’s, swap stories put your shoes on or what ever could be nice. John’s landing would be very nice (I work in that area)! I will have to check it out. May even think about pulling on plastic again. I think it’s time for me to shut up and get back to work.

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hah, yes. I'll have you know, DFA that not only have I been climbing the most sporto of routes at smith recently, I have even been receiving iBeta from the legendary hex-humping texplorer at times.

 

Just because there are no freshiez this year doesn't mean you can resort to name-calling. And if you must name call I'm an alien-humper.

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kinky. Yep I am bummed about the skiing but it is a good chance to work on the rock stuff. Frustrating how skiing seems to come so natural and subconsciously, but I have to work so hard to see progress on rock. Probably need to just mentally ease back and let it flow a bit more, as with anything.

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Snaileye,

 

I think that you will find that we are in agreement on many of these issues, and I think that you will see that we are a great community center for Portland climbers.

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The cardio may not seem like a big deal, but it does mean you can get in some exercise and climb in one place rather than having to run outside all of the time in winter and/or join a second gym.

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For many reasons I cannot give out much detail at this time. But I will be listening. I want this to be your gym, not my gym. I will post a link to our web site once it is up. Thanks for your patience-

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You doubtless have your membership stuff all structured already, but here's an idea: Still operating on the assumption that this is a bouldering-only gym; you may run into problems getting people to ditch their PRG memberships without lead terrain to lure them in, Dr. Flash Amazing being but one example, with many of DFA's posse expressing similar sentiments. So what would be cool would be some kind of limited membership option, something like the ten-pass thingies that snow resorts offer; perhaps cheaper than a day pass but not so cheap as an annual membership? That way, people who only wanna boulder once in a while, or have a bouldering trip to get in shape for, can skip out on the PRG's overcrowded & so-so bouldering zone and get their stoke on at Il Circuito. Circuit gets some business it might not otherwise, and route-focused climbers looking for an occasional break get a flexible option they can make use of when they want to.

 

Oh, and hopefully you can maintain a solid staff of good routesetters, 'cause the PRG is teetering on the brink of suckitude with its tenuous grasp on its routesetters. If Gary loses Hans & Tom, the routes in that place are going to be hurting bigtime.

 

Good luck!

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For many reasons I cannot give out much detail at this time. But I will be listening. I want this to be your gym, not my gym. I will post a link to our web site once it is up. Thanks for your patience-

 

Whats the latest word on this place?

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