Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
DPS

Local Ice

Recommended Posts

Guest

Preston Falls, Tyee Falls, McCrea Creek Falls, and some of the fangs on the southwest side of the river beyond McCrea Creek have all been climbed by white punks on dope. You're going to have to try harder for first ascents in the Entiat. Hell, even Number 1 MC was seen there when he was young.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbed Zenith at Banks Lake today. It is the climb misnamed as Absent Minded Professor on page 98 of Selected Climbs in the Cascades: vol 2 . Climbed in two very long pitches with a 60 meter rope. A shorter rope would not have reached the belay.

The first half of the first pitch was solid hooking up steep blobs with some fun overhanging moves for 100'. Solid screws somewhat difficult to find. The pillar above here is much narrower than pictured and chandeliered. The final 15' of the pillar had that clear look of fragile young ice and ended with a small overhang before the angle eased. 30' of WI 3 leads to the belay.

The ice on the second pitch was phenomenal. I usually need to go to the Canadian Rockies for solid blue vertical plastic pillars like this. The second pitch is also over 50m, although this would not be a problem, as the final 70' of the route is WI 2.

You can walk off right on the entablature ledge, which gets very narrow for one section.

As Allan was following the second pitch we got shelled when a 15' section of the tube 8' in diameter released from 200' above. It landed on the top of the climb, 50' to my left and pulverized on impact. Allan got pummelled pretty hard by the ice avalanche, but did not fall and was not injured. This is a serious threat on several climbs in the Columbia Basin in warm temps, esp. later in the day, and even at low temps if sun reaches the threatening ice.

(never take the word of a white punk on dope)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As of Monday: The Cable is still in. The top is somewhat thin and hollow. H202 is in but looking thinner and ratty. Just north of H202 , the climb with no first pitch and no name is still there and the upper tiers look fat from the road. The Emerald is in. Zenith is in and spectacular, but the crux pillar is somewhat thin and fragile. There are a lot of pillars that looked to be in good climbing shape, although most of them top out in shrubs. I did not get a look at the Punchbowl area. Guiness is in although toping out is difficult to do safely. This week has been cold only at night, so I'm sure the climbs have suffered some. But there should still be some fun climbing to be had there. If I was going to climb there I would make sure to start climbing early, to take advantage of cooler temps, esp on climbs with threatening ice above.

[This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 02-21-2001).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a note on the climb "just North of H202 with no first pitch and no name". This route can be gotten on by traversing and climbing the horribly loose 4th class rock on the left side, in 55m, to a belay on ice. I recommed small nuts, bugaboos, and a #3 camalot, as the pro is there, and you will really need it. Fun excercise though!

Alex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Anyone have recent information about Leavenworth area ice? Is Drury Falls still doable? How about 'Hubba Hill' or anything off Icicle Creek area? I am trying to decide whether its worth risking the drive to Leavenworth this weekend? We were looking at doing Colchuk Glacier as a backup plan.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For what its worth,Bruce White and I climbed

this route,(the one north of H2O2)awile ago

and were calling it Salt and Peper.

We used warthogs in the frozen mud,(some rock)and pitons for the rest,great climb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Althougt I havent been out since last Sunday,it has been real warm here,(I live in

Ephrata)the ice should be ok for 1 more weekend.

Most of the unusual lines will be in poor shape. If it stays this warm I give it 1 more

weekend.The punchbowl will be around awhile.

(yea)I hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climbed at Banks Lake on Wednesday 2/28/1. First ascent? North of Devil's Punch Bowl, just south of Osborn Bay Lake, turn east on a public fishing access road that follows the south shore. An aesthetic trio of pillars is visible on the rimrock. We climbed the middle one. WI 5 ~100', short screws very handy near the top. Belayed from equalized sagebrush well back from the top of the climb. Rappelled 115' to the base from a large ponderosa pine ~100' to the right. The right-hand climb has also been done, but not by me, and looks to be a bit easier. The left-hand climb is definitely more serious; steeper, longer and more technical. Its top is somewhat thinned and may not protect well. Does anyone have other info on these climbs? I propose the name "Electric Avenue" for this area as Electric City is clearly visible from the climbs. Suggested names for the climbs: " Kilowatt", "Megawatt", and "Gigawatt".

There is STILL a lot of climable ice in the Columbia Basin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter Chapman and I climbed the ice formation below Source Lake this morning (that avalanched on Mike and Ray in December). A big chunk had fallen off in the last few days. Possibly earthquake tremors? The ice is rotten when approaching the tree with orange/red slings, but takes good screws before that.

--Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted to R&I Ice Conditions.

This is a mirror post should people search this site instead of that one.

Pacific Northwest

---date climbed: February 28, 2001

It is the end of February and only the beginning of the end of one of the more strange, but still fruitful ice climbing seasons on the PNW.

- Lillooet: Conditions have been very good on many of the area classics, including Synchronicity Bridge River climbs.

- Whistler/Pemberton: Has been getting warm, but ice still exists South of Pemberton near Green River Thriller. Another week?

- Banks Lake, WA: Many climbable lines still in, including a fat Devil's Punchbowl. Might have to thrash some alder to top out though.

- Strobach Mountian: no report

- Alpental: A surprising amount of short to moderate length water ice things still around the upper valley. NY Gully on Snoqualmie was climbed in "very little ice" conditions last weekend. N Face of Chair looks mixed, NE Buttress has a fair amount of loose unconsolidated snow on it as of last weekend.

- Drury Falls: was fat 2 weeks ago, now is slush.

- Levenworth in general: thin or not in.

- North Cascades: throngs of PNW climbers wait in eager anticipation for highway 20 to open early this year due to lack of significant snowpack, which may result in several more weekends of good ice for those willing to drive and hike a bit.

Cheers, and Happy Spring! Alex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Retrosaurus, nice climb, Bruce started up that one but backed offed.

I led the one on the right,it was hard enough for me. We did it about 5 weeks ago and were wondering the same thing. Fred went

looking around and found it,so we went back the next day, we crossed over that stubble field,did you see it posted? Fred said he did"t see a thing.

We were thinking the Quad Pillars for the area but I have not thought of a name, if it

were a 1st.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul,

Yes, it's definitely posted, and no I didn't see a thing either, especially if the sheriff is the one asking. I can't wait to give the left hand route a crack. Those things drive me nuts, especially when there is no history on it. Sanity is the only thing holding me back. What a pity. Looks like it will have to wait till next year for fatter ice up top. Sanity sucks. There is still quality ice in Tumwater Canyon. Interested?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Retrosaurus, I did"t think anything was in there.

Jeff says your off during the week which is bad for me, but I'm open on weekends, what did you have in mind?

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alpental ice is still in and pretty fat considering... Things were getting a little slushy, and the spindrift avalanches caused by wind and skiiers weren't ideal, but still the best conditions I've seen in WA in the last month.

Best bet is for stuff on the east side of the valley, obviously.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh shit I'm going to piss people off. First I put a popup on the front page and now I'm closing this thread. Here is my reasoning though, and another person suggested this to me. Instead of continuing putting all the information for all of Washington ice in one thread, why not put it into a thread for each area. That was kind of the idea from the beginning but we never took charge. So here is my idea. The next person who posts for an area start a thread for that area in the correct region in the proper Route Reports Forum. There is already one for Banks Lake in the Central Washington Forum. One could argue that having it all in one place is better, but then you are stuck skimming through all the reports to find the ones you are interested in. I leave this thread open for another day in case there are some serious objections.

Jon

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jon,

What I would suggest is a waterfall ice climbs section under the route reports forum and then topics could be posted by area under that. That way It would all still be in one place but could easily be scanned for a particular area. If you are looking for waterfall ice it would be rather inconvenient to have to review each region of the route reports forum to see if some one has posted an ice report.

Retro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×