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marcus

[TR] Mount Hood- NE Face Direct 11/29/2004

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Climb: Mount Hood-NE Face Direct

 

Date of Climb: 11/29/2004

 

Trip Report:

On Nov 29 under cold clear skies Matt Cline and I ascended the 2000' NE face of Mount Hood. The approximate path of our travel would lie between routes 4 and 5B in the Oregon High book, following gullies and open slopes to the summit ridge.

We encountered perfect neve, 50 degrees with steeper bulges, often water ice, through short rock bands. Above 10,000ft we found periodic unstable windslab to 24".

Six and one-half hours from Cloudcap trailhead to the summit, descending the south side.

 

Gear Notes:

We soloed the route without incident, but stoppers/cams to 1.5", pickets and 10-13cm screws could be used to protect...

 

Approach Notes:

Coudcap road is still open all the way to the trailhead as of 11/29. We even got a Ford Tempo up there!

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cool guys--nice work. thumbs_up.gif Good to hear about the road too.

This route sounds pretty fun. Similar to the line vw4ever and party did a couple weeks ago if I recall.

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