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Justin_RR

BD Hexentrics vs. Metolius Curved Hexes

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Title Says it all. I'm builidng my rack and going for a load of hexes. Their weights are comparable, but their dimensions are a bit different, and I was wondering if folks found that made a difference in how versatile they were, or in how easily they place or hold a fall. Plus, Metolius offers that new curved design which they claim helps the hexes seat themselves while also making them easier to place over irregularities. Is that just marketing BS? rolleyes.gif

 

Does any of this really matter at all?!?

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No experience with the Metolius curved hexes, but their curved nuts seem to be very hard to remove, and tricky to place. Most people I know that have tried them seem to stick with straighter sided nuts.

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i like metolius curvy one a lot better. they are like giant bd stoppers. which is weird. wtf? i cant explain.

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Climb with someone who has a good range of gear/rack and see what you like. Down the road the clutter/weight on your harness can add up "Hexs".

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i like metolius curvy one a lot better. they are like giant bd stoppers. which is weird. wtf? i cant explain.

 

A second vote for curves... they are literally big BD stoppers... same curvature. Do get BD hex # 11 as Metolius doesn't make one that big and # 11 corresponds to 3.5 camalot.

 

If you do get BD Hexs get the unslung ones and sling them super long so that you don't have to carry as many draws in the alpine.

 

If you want I would be willing to loan you mine for a test run (I'm in PDX also)... pm me.

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I own a set of old BD hexes and like them. I got a free met curved hex that seemed to be too much of a bitch to get out for someone to bother with. I had to hammer it with my little pika nuthammer to get it out. Now this hex was only 6 feet off the ground on R&D route so I doubt anyone fell on it. It was just a bitch to get out once "set" . Seems like due to the curved geometry it might be real easy to set this curved hex hard and not be able to get it out. I have never had this problem with the regular hexes. I guess they usually fall out instead of getting stuck.

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Neither ... I suggest also taking a look at Wild Country Rockcentric's as well

 

.... size to size, lighter and stronger than both BD and Met

 

down side is they only start at a size #3 which is about a BD/Met size 5

 

available on sewn dyneema slings or wire

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No one ever places small hexes anyway that is what nuts are for.

 

I agree the WC Rockcentrics are the superior design.

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Beware of the smaller wired BD hexes. Some weigh in with a 6kN rating (#3 for example). Hardly what you want for lead climbing, and they weigh the same as nuts. Silly little things! The bigger BD hexes are nice for picketesque type climbing as they are exceedingly light. I think the #11 cowbell was placed about 8 times on a scamper up the N. Buttress of Fury this summer. Better than dragging up the costalots, and no big deal if you lose it. It is nice to sling your own with some quality cord.

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No one ever places small hexes anyway that is what nuts are for.

 

No one ever places large nuts anyway that is what small hexes are for.

 

Much lighter.

 

wave.gif

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whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls.

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whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls.

 

Might want to bring a few to the gym for good measure, while you're at it. Just, you know, so people know that you're one of those rock climbers.

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Buy either of the three, climb for a while, get really good at crack climbing, start climbing hard enough cracks that you don't want to hang out for a long time fiddling in a hex, buy a set of cams, save the hexes because you can't bare to part with old climbing gear, then make your kids learn to climb with only hexes before you let them touch the spendy stuff.

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Another vote for the Rockcentrics on Dyneema. Lighter, Stronger, and if you pull the sling through and clip both ends they don't sound like cow bells grin.gif

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Wild Things hexes on Dyneema work best. Lighter, curved shape cams better, sling less prone to wiggle hex out.

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whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls.

 

yelrotflmao.gif

 

I think I've actually seen that a couple times. Why do some folks gear up at the overlook? Very weird.

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Wild Things hexes on Dyneema work best. Lighter, curved shape cams better, sling less prone to wiggle hex out.

 

wild "things" doesn't make hexes tongue.gif

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Am I misunderstanding here. I am under the understanding that hexes can be used in parrell sided cracks. The wild country site shows the rockcentrics being placed in positions more like a chock. Can they be used safely like traditional hexes.

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Am I misunderstanding here. I am under the understanding that hexes can be used in parrell sided cracks. The wild country site shows the rockcentrics being placed in positions more like a chock. Can they be used safely like traditional hexes.

 

yes they can, get them. preferably on dyneema.

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