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Leashless is NOT new!


David_Parker
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Leashless climbing must have begun way back in the 50's when the hardmen were first learning steep ice climbing.

 

funny story: when they were both young and still living in Victoria, Greg Foweraker and Peter Croft decided to try out ice climbing one winter when it was very cold and there were drools on the cliffs at Fleming Beach (local bouldering area). they borrowed a couple wooden shafted ice axes from someone and away they went. of course, there were no leashes of any sort on the tools, so Peter gets up about 15 feet, pumps out, loses his grip, and plummets back to the bottom - with both tools still solidly in place in the flow above. maybe we've made some progress after all...

 

come to think of it, i also recall a similar incident involving Laurie Skreslet on a route. maybe you had to undergo some 'rite' of this sort to become a great climber.

 

and there were various means of coping too - special tape, klister, whatever. sheesh...

 

cheers,

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