mattshepard Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 (edited) South Tahoma Headwall inquiry 11/16/2004 Has anyone climbed or know anyone who has climbed this route on Rainer. Any beta would be appreciated. Edited November 16, 2004 by To_The_Top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Holy cow! You scared me. I though someone had climbed it. Is it safe to assume your thinking about climbing it a different time of year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Go to Trip Report Index in the upper right or Mt. Rainier National Park like you did here and do a search with South Tahoma Headwall as your key words. If nothing there, then go buy Mike Gauthier's Book. TR's are for actual reporting of trips, not inquiries. Looks like a fun route. 12 mile approach tho, not many peeps around...be prepared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
To_The_Top Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 We climbed it last summer. Search for "Pandora's" TR from late June or early July. She had some good beta and I think I may have posted something from our trip within her thread. Let me know if you have specific questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshepard Posted November 24, 2004 Author Share Posted November 24, 2004 I could not find the post that you were talking about can you tell me a little about your climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted November 24, 2004 Share Posted November 24, 2004 Try here I'm leaving town for a few days, but PM me if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 (edited) The lower South T glacier is technically "closed," due to the C-47 WWII plane that crashed there years ago...although it's not inforced. I don't think there's ever been any issues with climbers accessing other routes across the glacier (i.e., South T headwall). The route is steep, reasonable, with no resting places for 4k of elevation gain. Best conditions are probably in late April through June...combined with a cold snap and reasonably firm snow. Move quickly and beware of rock and ice fall. Either climb unroped...or simul...with running belays (probably pickets). Some NPS rangers have climbed it in recent years. South Tahoma Glacier and the Tahoma Glacier are different routes. Post your TR and photos if you do it. I'll look for a photo... Edited November 27, 2004 by treknclime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshepard Posted November 29, 2004 Author Share Posted November 29, 2004 In Mike Gauthier's 1999 guidebook he says that the rumor that the South Tahoma Headwall is still closed due to the plane crash is not true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 I don't think the "headwall" has ever been closed. The use of the glacier for crossings hasn't been discouraged, either. The lower glacier itself, I believe, isn't really "closed," per se, rather, people have been discouraged from staying/practicing on the glacier in respect to those soldiers who lost their lives. That part of the glacier isn't too attractive for much anyhow...other than crossing, so it's purely academic for climbers, anyhow. So...cross the glacier to get to the headwall, and don't worry about the area being "closed." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshepard Posted November 29, 2004 Author Share Posted November 29, 2004 I'm really looking for some beta for the headwall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Write Mike Gauthier...he'll have more than most anyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_Gauthier Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 I'm catching up on posts... STH is a great route. Seems like you've received a lot good advice here. I've done the route once and acessed it from Success Cleaver. You can jump onto the South Tahoma Glacier and approach the headwall, but it's maybe faster and more direct to just traverse onto the lower headwall around 9K from Success Cleaver (I can't quite remember the exact elevation now, but it's pretty easy/clear once you get up there.) The benefit of this approach is that you don't have to mess with ropes. In fact, we did the route w/o ropes and down climbed Success Cleaver back to our camp. Made for a faster/safer ascent/descent. If you rope up on the headwall, bring protection. You'll mostly want pickets, and maybe a few screws... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshepard Posted December 30, 2004 Author Share Posted December 30, 2004 I wanted to make the approach via the glacier to get more practice on glaciers. Can you tell me what kind of climbing i will encounter on the headwall section Alpine Ice, Water Ice, Mixed, or just snow slopes. What should be someone's abilities before they climb the route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_Gauthier Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Matt It's mostly snow. Late in the summer, the route is all rock. The snow can get quite hard, and there are short sections of forzen ice (where the snow melts and refreezes). The route is southern exposed, so it gets soft fast. I brought one ice tool and one mountianeering ax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattshepard Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 I was thinking of attempting it at the end of May beginning of June this year. Is it gonna be just snow on the headwall or all rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 If we continue to get this crazy un-winterlike weather (rain, sun, no snow, rain), it'll probably be all rock even that early in the year . It looked pretty snowy today though . My guess is that in late May/early June the headwall will still be mostly snow but the rockbands will be partially melted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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