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[TR] Black Peak- N. Ridge 11/14/2004


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Climb: Black Peak-N. Ridge


Date of Climb: 11/14/2004


Trip Report:

Wayne and I left Bainbridge Island early and drove up the N. Cascade Hwy with a few ideas but no firm plans. It was raining at Rainy Pass so we continued over and stopped at the pull out for Wine Spires. It was socked in. So I convinced him to go back and try Black Peak so back to Rainy Pass. It was still socked in, but we saw patches of Blue and headed up. By the time we reached Heather's ass, it was clear. Thankfully we had snowshoes and we made it to the lake at the base (6980') by about 2:00 in clear skies. Thinking it would hold, we forbade the summit that day and made camp. I secretly wished I had my hockey skates, as the lake was smooth as glass.


The storm came in that night and we awoke to high winds and snow (blizzard) So we bailed and enjoyed a nice walk in the high alpine. Back at the car by 10:30 am.

This would be a nice objective in good weather while the pass is still open.




Gear Notes:

tent, sleeping bags, food, beer in the car


Approach Notes:

snow on trail, need snowshoes in alpine

Edited by David_Parker
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I miss the Cascades frown.gif Tomorrow I hope to do Torrie and Grays, two of the oh-so-exciting 14ers here. They are all like freaking hills. :P



The ice and mixed lines should be coming in right now in the Rockies. Dreamweaver on Meeker, Notch Couloir on Longs, Cables Route on Longs, and tons and tons of others in RMNP should be good to go. There's also the Y-Couloir and a few mixed lines by the Corinthian Column on the north face of Pikes.


If you do head up to Greys and Tories, there's a cool ridge on the climber's right that is way, way more interesting than the standard route - fun ridge running with a very brief 4th class section in summer - might be more intersting in early season conditions. There's also some couloirs that lead almost directly to the summit on the face to the left of the ridge that I was talking about - which would also make for some more interesting climbing than the standard route. Check Dawson's book for deets.


If you are looking for local stuff the on the I-70 corridor, a linkup of Bierstadt-Evans via the Sawtooth Ridge would probably be pretty cool as well if you get the right weather window, and if you were really wanting to speed things up the descent back to the main parking area is usually pretty quick with skis - but can be rocky - and watch out for the willows..


The Inwood Arete plus a descent down the east ridge of Quandary would also make for a good day, and Quandary's West Ridge is a long, long 4th class traverse at high altitude that would also be pretty interesting in winter. There's also some very reliable and fat ice flows just over Hoosier Pass if you are in the vicinity.


I like the Cascades better too, but the Rockies are hardly a bad place to be in the winter.

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