David_Parker Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 I did Dreamer in 1986 and thought I'd go back since I thought it was so awesome back then. In the mean time, Safe Sex has been put up so I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion as to which one they prefer and why. Minor approach beta requested, but not required. Oh, and where is Pub club this week? I'm gonna be thirsty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 I would go for the combo, start with Safe-sex for the first 2 pitches, then head left and catch dreamer. The rest of Safe-sex was good, but was just a bit too dirty/veggie for me. But since you have never done safe-sex, it makes it a tough call. If you are looking for nice clean climbing, stay with dreamer, or the combo. If you want a bit of adventure, go for Safe-sex. they are both great climbs. As far as approach beta, it is actually straight forward. At the end of the road follow the trail for about 20-30 minutes, crossing a stream, and doing some small boulder hopping. Right before the stream really turns into some slabs, turn right and head up a dry streambed (however I am sure there is a bunch of water coming down it in the spring). The trail follows this up to the rock. At times there is a trail on the right and left of the stream bed to get past some sticky spot. Just watch for the bright flagging tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 I couldn't understand what 'highest erect cedars' meant until I looked down from the climb. They are mature cedars that are big enough to have been logged but weren't, not the scrappy little bushy cedars that clog the trail. From where you will probably hit the base of the slabs from the dry stream bed head right and up, there's flagging tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted September 23, 2002 Author Share Posted September 23, 2002 Any comments on the direct start? Also, Is Urban Bypass sustained 10.b or or just a few moves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 Direct start does not look too bad, lower angle, and sparsely bolted, but shouldn't be too bad. Have'nt done it though. Not sure about urban bypass, but it looks fun too, probably not sustained at 10b, but more than one 10 move. just what I remember from lookin over at it. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 The direct start was not difficult and was over with quickly. Not the most memorable part of the climb, for good or for bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 The 10b crux is a couple of moves, as I recall. It's definitely steep, but the fat bolts are reassuring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Urban Bypass 10b is a sketch move at a bolt (2nd to last on the pitch?), just before the belay. It felt *very much* like the 10b sketch move off the belay on the 2nd pitch of City Park, but bolt protected with a clean fall. Highly recommended! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Did the Safe-Sex/Dreamer combo a couple of weeks ago. I'll second the recommendation to take the first couple of pitches of SS and then shift over to Dreamer. The direct start to the Urban Bypass variation looks cool as well - maybe next time. On this outing I was leading everything and knew I'd have some serious leader's fatigue if I got on anything too burly down low.... [ 09-23-2002, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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