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[TR] Eldorado- NW Couloir 11/13/2004

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Hmmm. I am taking my Dynafits up there. There is a foot of new snow at Stevens. That has to mean at least a foot of new on the approach up high and a week to go yet. And that is on top of that pack we were almost able to walk on. If it doesn't warm up too much up there, I am hoping for some great ski runs. Dodge the 'lumps' and tally ho!

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Bill Pilling's old AAJ report reminded me of another classic report from the 1980s. This one is from Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1989 (p. 76). It's from Eldorado Peak too, so somewhat appropriate here:

 

INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FOR NOCTURNAL DIURESIS, WEATHER

 

Washington, North Cascades

 

On August 19, 1988, four veteran mountaineers set out to ascend the West Ridge of Eldorado Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. The group was surprised by high winds, rain, and snow and was forced to make camp at 2030 meters. Equipped primarily for a summer climb, the oldest climber, who has predictible nocturnal diuresis at altitude, had forgotten his usual "pee bottle," a zip-lock bag. Undaunted by his forgetfulness, the climber fully opened one of the four 25 oz. cans of Foster's Ale, carried to high camp by one of his compatriots, to use as a substitute. During one of his nocturnal wakenings (necessitated in part by prior ingestion of the contents of the can), high winds and snow made impeccable maneuvering difficult, and he incurred a superficial laceration from the sharp edges of the can. Excessive blood loss was prevented by a firm squeeze technique; and so as not to foreshorten their trip, steri-strips were quickly applied longitudinally. This technique provided painless, effective closure of the two centimeters horizontal laceration. With no further trauma or change in morphology of the injured part, the steri-strips lasted for an adequate length of time to permit an uneventful descent. (Source: R. B. Schoene)

 

(Editor's Note: While no category exists for this kind of accident in our data base--nor do we intend to create one, this candid account is included for the readers' edification. With thanks to the members of this group, R B. Schoene, T. F. Hombein, W. Q. Sumner, and F. Dunham, we hope the most important member has fully recovered....)

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I dream of alpine as moon shadows dance in the clouds.

Tomorrow I will hike the damp trail and boulders then ski to Eldorado pass.

The NW coulior has not left my thoughts of late.

Perhaps we will linger to descend the East ridge under the full moon.

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