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[TR] Hood- Cooper Spur Ice 11/4/2004

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Climb: Hood-Cooper Spur Ice


Date of Climb: 11/4/2004


Trip Report:

billy, Macchiato and myself went up on Hood yesterday to enjoy some early season ice. Clear and cold weather made it feel very un-Oregon like and made for some nice climbing.



Not having studs or chains we left the Macchiato-mobile at the next to last hairpin before the fork. Could be sent to Cloud Cap, especially with chains, as someone else had pushed to the fork earlier. Return on skis was quick down the firm snow on the road. Left skis when we reached the spur. I'd take them up the glacire next time.



billy booting up the Elliot. Just over his left shoulder is our first project.



The first objective on the right. Pillar on the left is in but dripping heavily. Might be fatter/dryer a little later.



Hal leading p.1 . Ice was good although surprisingly brittle and cold.



Set up a belay to the left, under the steep curtain, so billy could head up the right side. Tricky move stepping off the top of the pillar to gain the ramp above.


We topped out the climb and rapped down a gully further up the spur. Scope out the descents before you go up. We foud a short gully to come down, some are quite long.


We then went up and did Slurrpee Crumble or something. Skipped the mixed finish as it was getting dark, rapped from the top of the good ice.

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excellent, that's def the one pat n' i saw last week. looks thicker than it was then too.


good call on skipping the mixed part of coconut cookie crumble...too much fun in one day can be lethal.

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HB, whatever will you name this climb tongue.gif

What about "Iain European Yourself" tongue.gif

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i agree, ya gotta name it something...if ya wanna be all touchy-sentimental you could call it after the unfortunate victim of the sandy headwall that same day.

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Climbed this flow with Paul Robinson on 11/7 in warm temps(upper 40's), though the sheltered northern aspect and ca. 8300' elevation still provided excellent conditions. Found a 13cm screw useful...would suggest 1-2 on rack. Also a couple pins for a rock belay about 50' above the topout.


We required no floatation on the approach...approximately 2 hours from the Cloudcap trailhead.


The upper road is still open and passable with 4wd - bring a shovel.


So what are you waiting for...go get 'em!

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