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Leader Falls on a Rope...

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ahh dude...I get my ass waxed monthly by a cute Puerto Rican guy named Pepe. Wearing a thong is so liberating! fruit.giffruit.gif


Could we stay on topic here? Dude is asking about ropes and you're getting into all kinds of weird shit. shocked.gif

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First of all, congratulations on your first leader fall! The more you fall, the more you will improve. Trust me, I've logged a LOT of flight time. Usually the first fall or two of a season would be enough to get the fear cobwebs out of the head so I could be more serious in my efforts.


Regarding your question of when to retire a rope, I think a number of people have already responded with the correct observation that your fall was about a 0.33 factor and probably less if you take into account that your fall probably had a dynamic belay and friction from your body on less than vertical rock, etc. etc.


Personally, I fell on a given rope dozens if not hundreds of times. Most of the falls had less than 0.2 factor, since they were often higher up a climb with more rope to hold the fall. The most important reasons I would retire a rope would be if it had core showing through the mantle from an abrasion or cut, if sand had worked its way into the rope too much, or it just got plain old cruncy sounding from becoming brittle from UV exposure.


Nothing like the soft pliable feel of a new rope...

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