David_Parker Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I don't know the author of this and it came from a friend a NEClimbs.com I envision Kerry as an aging tradster. Kerry started at a young age, working his way through the ranks, putting in the blood and sweat that used to be necessary to improve. North American wall? check. Wyoming sheep ranch? check. Astroman and Bachar Yerian? Check, check. Kerry also spent his time in the Himalayas attempting the big peaks. Three times he escaped near death experiences as was rewarded with articles of his bravery. His detractors, though, claim his wounds were superficial, though, and they feel Kerry was way too reckless in his mountaineering comand. Kerry even did his duty overseas. When America needed strong climbers to compete in sport climbing comps in Europe, he answered the call, only to come home completely disillusioned by the whole mess. Since then, he has been an outspoken critic on overbolting, chipping, gluing and the general narcissim of the competition Climbing world. He is not above the use of bolts or powerdrills, but only when it is absolutely necessary and passes a "locals test". While Kerry's personal values do not really support Sport Climbing, he feels that a person should have own right to choose what is best for them. While he did put up some desperate crimping bolder problems in his day, he is far to tall and lanky to perform well on today's powerful bolder problems. His partners speak volumes about his intelligence and thoughtful approach to the sport. Pinning him down to a climb, though, can be a task. First, he wants to do the Muir Wall. Then when it comes time to do the Muir wall, he is talking about doing Bushido. I see Bush as a sport climber who was born with a silver carabiner in his mouth. Born of climbing lineage, many people feel he has been a sucessful climber by default and genetics rather than talent and personal accomplishment. By most accounts, his brother is really the better climber. Having been tutored by some of climbings greats, he trained in private gyms and was guided on Americas classic climbs. Being a part of the gym generation, Bush never had to earn his keep on runout face climbs and manky cracks. His early climbing career is shrouded in mystery. Many people have spoken of his early routes being overgraded and chipped to fit his personal style. Many claim he was a cronic gluer, and lied about the routes he climbed in his home state of Texas. Unfortunately, we will never know the truth as those early climbs have been erased from history. Apparently, his supporters crowbarred the holds and bolts off the climbs so people could never discover the truth. Depite his alleged cronic glue use and chipping years ago, Bush supports stiff penalties for people glue users and chippers. While Kerry was bloodying himself in battle on Gasherbum II, Cho Oyu, Makalu and attempts of K2, Bush, through his family influence, got a prime spot in Hidden Valley in J-tree. Some people claim that many of his climbing exploits from this time were falsified by a family friend under pressure to make Bush look good in the climbing community's eyes. Bush claims that whether you are in the Himalayas or J-tree, climbing is a noble pursuit, but most people see the difference between the Himalayas and J-tree. Partners talk about his singleminded determination as his key to success. His lack of ability to alter his approach, though, can lead to problems. Currently, he has been working on Just Do It. Bush refuses to change his beta, despite most climbers telling him that he has the sequence all wrong. Many feel he may be stuck on this climb for years unless he changes his approach. Over the years, Bush has owned several climbing gyms, but he ran all of them into bankruptcy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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