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aLx_JustcliMbing

Climb 5.12 Any suggestions

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So my goal for next summer is to climb 5.12 solid. At this point, 5.12 top rope would make me happy. I have a lot to learn in regards to trad lead. I currently sport lead confortably on 5.9 and TR 5.10 - 5.10 a/b on a good day. I feel like I have come to a stand still in reaching my goal. Any suggestions, recommendations on how to help move towards this goal? (other then climb a lot which is what i do anyway ;-))

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Yoga helped me break into the 5.12 range a fair bit ago tongue.gif

 

I was stuck in the .11's for quite a while.

 

I would suggest taking it incrementally.

 

wave.gifE

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get better finger strength and endurance.

 

and climb a lot thus making your technique better. I heard shorts over polypro works too, who would have guessed!?

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Chip a few 5.12s down to 10b's, climb them and then fill in the holds with cement afterwards.

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not to be a naysayer, but going from being a 5.9 leader to a solid 5.12 (onsight) leader in one season,...well, I hope you are planning on not like actually holding a job or maintaining a relationship or anything.

 

I've been climbing with a solid 5.11+ trad leader my last two seasons, and I had the same basic goal you did, mine was to learn as much as possible and finally break out of 5.10 and get into leading solid 11. I got the gym membership, got stronger, climbed alot of tougher routes with my friend, and was able to see the whole progression in action. I came to a number of conclusions:

 

* to climb solid 11 or harder, it really helps to be a full-time climber.

* climbing 5.10 or harder (especially at places like Index) is much more mental than alot of people are willing to admit. Many times climbing harder means not only physically harder but mentally more demanding: running it out where the casual weekend 5.9 leader would want to stop and protect something thats making the leader uncomfortable.

* you need to be much more careful about injuries. You'll be spending more time in the gym if you stay in Washington (or OR or BC), don't succumb to the common overuse tendon injuries, or rotator cuff, or the other host of problems that gym climbing can cause.

* bouldering skills help, try bouldering a consistent V5 or harder

* you need very good gear skills. you will be falling alot more on your gear than you currently do at the 5.9 or 5.10 levels. being confident in your gear abilities comes from alot of aid, alot of leading, and alot of falling at the 5.10 level or higher

* mentorship is very important. both to set realistic goals (5.12 might not be realistic) and to show you *how* to climb at that level. Its harder than just another number grade. I fundamentally changed some of my approaches to climbing after watching my friend in action. I can honestly say I am a much better climber now, though I *still* dont lead solid 11.

* footwork footwork footwork. climbing hard 10 or 11 onsight at Index or Smith Rock will go a long way towards your 5.12 goals

 

hope that helps

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If you want to climb a sport 5.12, just spend three days a week, three hours per day, in the gym. Sport 5.12 is easy to climb if you spend enough time regularly pulling hard.

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My vote might be for:

If you want to chase numbers, pick a climb and project it for a long time. My hardest redpoint (12+) was simply due to spending many weekends on the same climb.

___

If you siege a climb,you will eventually send it.

____

An old partner of mine (C.P. Little had the most amazing memory for remembering every detail of a climb- it can really help).

___

If you just want a softie, rainy day women at WWI is about the softest "12a" around.

_______

I'm weak these days- alpine climbing & beer bigdrink.gif

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If you really want to advance that far in a season it would really help if you have the body for it. The numbers I've seen thrown out are 5'9 135# , 6'0 150# and 6'3 165. If you're more my body size of 6'0 175# its going to be difficult but not impossible. Having small fingers will help too as you will be able to put more (and more of them) on small holds. That all said these are generalities and will not apply to everyone so pull hard and have fun. Kinesthetic awareness, flexibility, balance and a good mindset will get you to your goal at some point. When I decided I had to redpoint 5.12 I started going to Little Si every wednesday and did Rainy every time till I got it. The one to the right of it is not too bad either and noone will say its not 5.12

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Ahh, I remember my first trad 5.12 attempt like it was yesterday. Lotsa grunting and groaning for many minutes and never even got off the ground... hahaha.gif OOOh yeah baby, I suck. thumbs_up.gif

 

It's good to have goals in climbing but relax if you don't get there in your time frame (or ever).

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If you want to climb a sport 5.12, just spend three days a week, three hours per day, in the gym. Sport 5.12 is easy to climb if you spend enough time regularly pulling hard.

 

Yeah... maybe if you are Potter.

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One thing that has helped me out a bit is working with a well known climbing coach... I'm by no means a competition climber, but that doesn't negate the things that a coach has to offer.

 

The advantage a coach has is that he or she is often able to see things that you are doing, that you don't realize you are doing. They help you with your technique as well and they know how to help you train without injury.

 

A slightly cheaper alternative to a coach is one of the many training books out there. "How to Climb 5.12" or "Climbing for Peak Performance" or whatever else you might find can be helpful is you follow their training suggestions very closely.

 

Good luck!

 

Jason

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The best thing I ever did was realize that I really wanted to be there.

I am much happier to be there, so much less stress. (well, until the s#!t really hits the fan...)

The value of a good attitude is priceless.

 

It also helps to climb with fun people.

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Do you want to go from 10a/b sport to 5.12 trad in half a year? I realize anything is possible but this smells like a troll. The biggest jumps I have seen have been from strong sport climbers like already climb 5.12 switching to trad and going up two full grades in a year from like 5.8-5.10 or 5.9-5.11 in a year

 

Good luck, I suggest you just have fun climbing though

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i don't want to go from 5.10 sport to 5.12 trad in half a year...my goals may be out there but i am not THAT unrealistic. My goals for trad are much different then my goals for sport climbing.....i have a lot more to learn about trad. i want to go from 5.10 sport to 5.12 sport and that does not necessarily mean leading. at this point i do climb as much as i possibly can. i need my fingers to be stronger etc.

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i don't want to go from 5.10 sport to 5.12 trad in half a year...my goals may be out there but i am not THAT unrealistic. My goals for trad are much different then my goals for sport climbing.....i have a lot more to learn about trad. i want to go from 5.10 sport to 5.12 sport and that does not necessarily mean leading. at this point i do climb as much as i possibly can. i need my fingers to be stronger etc.
if you want to climb stronger it is simple... CLIMB MORE. learn better technique. anyone can thrutch up a .10 it takes actul skill to climb harder. welcome to the cealing. it takes comitment, talent and training to get further. oh ya, and like i think alex said.. quit your job and break up with your partner.

 

another sugestion would be to go on the road. I know some one that did that. lived the dirtbag lifestyle for 6 months. he came off the road climbing like a BEAST trad and sport. fruit.gif

Edited by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer

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The How to Climb 5.12 book can basically be summed up in the above posts: climb a lot, especially on rock (the gym isn't nearly as good as actually rock climbing), but not so much that you burn out or get injured, eat healthy, keep it fun.

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The numbers I've seen thrown out are 5'9 135#...

WTF? lol im 5'7 168# Am I doomed to be a noob climber forever? Im pretty solid for that weight. I think its all about endurance, time on the rock, and good technique as opposed to height/weight ratios. Granted it helps to be a stick but I'm more like a stubby branch...just look at John Dunne grin.gif

3.jpg

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steriods, mushsmile.gif, and bigdrink.gif

That way you can be strong, have good headspace, and be having fun at the same time. Gotta balance these things out doncha know the_finger.gif

The trick is finding out the balance that works for you......ohhh ahhhh.....

My current balance allows me to french free 5.8+, but I figure with a few more uppers I can be pulling 5.9 on gear(literally) Hope this help

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steriods, mushsmile.gif, and bigdrink.gif

That way you can be strong, have good headspace, and be having fun at the same time. Gotta balance these things out doncha know the_finger.gif

Damn right, next best thing to being limber is not knowing you aren't limber. yellaf.gif

 

As for me, nothing's helped me work harder than cleaning for someone climbing just above my level. Someone PATIENT, that is.

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it seems to me that most of the posts above are what i'll call "modifying your body" type of tips...things like build endurance, get stronger, get better contact strength...these all can help...BUT...Most of this is "unnecessary" for upper 11's and low 12's of the technical variety that we have in the PNW (your post wasn't specific as to the "type" of 5.12 climbing required)...we don't really have sustained steep climbing around here...not like say the southeast...so i'll keep my comments to the type of sport climbing you're most likely to find around here...

 

What you really really require to climb 5.11's and low 5.12's is technique...and this is a subtle technique that i'm talking about...the surest way to find this is to climb w/ "quiet feet"...don't just hurl your foot on to holds...place them on carefully, make sure your sole is really biting in to the hold...you want literally 90% of your weight on the footholds...

 

Toprope everything that is offered to you...regardless of the level...in fact don't even ask...you'll learn quicker w/ a mix of stuff that's way over your head and waaaay under your ability...but don't fall into a project trap that has been recommended above...i can't count the numbers of climbers that go out to si and beat a good 5.11+ into the ground, get it all slick and then go to a new area and get trounced by 5.10's and other 5.11's...be sure to fill in your base...if you go out and project something, MAKE SURE that you also complete other routes that are onsightable or done in a couple of go's...

 

As far as strength goes, you need to be able to do about 1/2 a pullup to climb 11+/12- in the PNW....

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from time to time get on some hard 12s and a 13 or two. get beat down by these routes, but learn from them. they will help you envision what can actually be held on to. and make the holds on say a 12a seem a bit more friendly.

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yup...hence my comment "toprope everything that is offered to you".... :thumbsup:

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Man, I'm stoked to go rock climbing...and I don't even rock climb. Hey cracked, one year right? I just want 5.9 though cause that will get me to the top of most things that I'm interested in. I'd be stoked to be a gaper climber...

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