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[TR] Redrocks and Joshua Tree- lots 10/4/2004

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Climb: Redrocks and Joshua Tree-lots


Date of Climb: 10/4/2004


Trip Report:

Six full days of climbing at Redrocks and Joshua tree. Day 1 Redrocks: "Dark Shawdow" a 3 pitch 5.8 climb in the Mescalito. Fun climb for the first climb of the trip. Meet 3 Canadians on the second pitch. We managed to keep the rope out of the water when we pulled the rope. "Risky Bussiness" 10c sport route for our second climb. I think the second bolt was missing "poped" because the runout to the third bolt was long enough to have a ground fall 40+ feet. Good climb although. Day 2 Redrocks: "Sour Mash" 10A 5-6 pitch. Fun, Fun climb. An interesting mixed climb. I could say that Sour Mash is close to the best mixed climb i've encountered. The 2 rope rappel dropped you off a 20 foot overhanging roof. "Wholesome Fullback" 10A substained climb. Solid crack with an easier 2nd pitch to the rap station. This was a good climb and luckily we brought our headlamps up because half way up the second pitch, darkness set in. Rapping down there was a cool view of the Vegas lights. Day 3 Joshua Tree: Hardly any climber in sight. This is a strange thing I was told. "White Lighting" 5.8 climb. We finished the climb off to the right to make it more fun. It was. "Overseer" 5.9 fun with a good finish. "Poodles Are People" 10B and hard but good. Ran into the same Canadians from Redrocks, eating at the local Thi spot. Day 4 Joshua Tree: This day started out with the best intentions. "Breakfast Of Champions" 5.8 on the south Astro Dome. The second pitch was runnout between bolts and made the climb harder in my opion. Very good climb. Amazing views from the top of the dome. We kinda of climbed two more of the clasics but I live to climb another day. We made it down to the showers just in time to finish the day off. Day 5 Joshua Tree: "Doubble Cross" 5.7 but fairly stiff. Good warm up for the day. ""Illusion Dwellar" 10B. This climb was substained and awesome. A must do. "Invisability Lesson" 5.9 climb and the most crowed crag in J-Tree that we had seen. "Rubbicon" 10D. A crazy looking climb. Hard start to a 25 foot traverse to a long, slightly overhanging finger crack. The stiffist trad climb i've climbed and well worth it. At the end of the day we bouldered on "Gunsmoke Traverse". We headed back to Redrocks that night. Day 6 Redrocks: On our way out of the camp ground we say the Canadians again A. "Dancing With God" 10A. "Nightmare On Crude Street" 10D/11B. A juggy climb with a good crux finish. If you go left it's a 10D and if you go right it's an 11B. I leaned to the left but I did use a foot on the right "11A"? "Black Corridor Route 4 Left" 11A finger tips. Very ballancy and difficult but good. 12:00 back to Oregon. My best climbing trip yet. If anyone wants any beta let me know and I'll ask Dr. Joe.


Gear Notes:

9 draws, 10 runners, 2 ropes, up to grey BD cams, up to green aliens, small/med/large nuts, lots of water.


Approach Notes:

85+ degrees out for the whole trip. Almost all the climbs were in the shade. Ask Dr Joe.

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