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Cletus

Mountain Porn of the Day

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I'll raise you a chossy pile of o'talus

 

-

 

NE Ridge on Right, South Chossy Gullies on Left (out of view)

There was some serious FRESHIEZ on the North Face, along with some ice

[big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

-

 

Mmmmmm ... small pockets and glue-in bolts ... rrrroooowwwwrrrrr!

Isn't that a picture of a crack climb? Is it Karate Crack? Does it have small pockets and glue-in bolts?

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"Karate Crack" has small pockets and glue-in bolts? Methinks you are either trolling or sadly mistaken (what would you need bolts for on a crack climb?). Karate Crack has neither that I recall but is instead a rather stunning backward question mark-shaped crack (?) adjacent to Cinammon Slab, another fine climb if you combined the two pitches.

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"Isn't that a picture of a crack climb? Is it Karate Crack? Does it have small pockets and glue-in bolts?"

 

Where's the "putting face in hands and shaking head" emoticon?

 

That, friend, is none other than the infamous Churning Buttress, home of sport climbs with small pockets, and, yes, glue-in bolts. Karate crack is about 200 yards west.

 

[ 09-11-2002, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

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Yeah really. Why would anyone bolt a crack climb at Smith? I doubt anyone would intentionally try to bring the climb down to their level like that. Aren't they're some sort of unposken ethical rules or something at that place?

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[laf]

 

Dr. Flash Amazing smells sarcasm! Or is it something he ate?

 

Really, though, where are the bolted crack pitches at Smith (aside from a couple of Ryan Lawson's routes)? On the whole, there aren't that many, thinks DFA.

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I'm showing my ignorance here because it has been a while since I've been to Smith but, yes, I suppose it would not be Karate Crack because that climb is on a wall that faces Cinnamon Slab, isn't it? But the posture of that climber, leaning so far away from the rock, was what I thought made it appear to be a crack climb. Those must be some pretty good pockets.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

:Really, though, where are the bolted crack pitches at Smith.

Look for the glued-on holds.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

They're probably just hangdogging.

At the risk of sounding like someone else on this board, I'll say that it did not occur to me that someone stoop so low as to do that and post it as a "climbing" shot. I prefer to think those are just some really good pockets.

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If it makes you feel any better, the Doctor was posting it for the scenery, not the goob in the middle of the frame (it's from Smith Rock dot-com, listed as a picture of the Churning Buttress; no mention of climbing or the climber). And, of course, most people spend a lot of time hanging on Churning, so it was a logical conclusion that the guy is dogging.

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Yes, and it was a good shot. I'm just not as "in touch" with the sport climbing thing as I might be and that didn't look like a natural face-climbing pose to me. But I feel much better now. Thanks. [Wink]

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Not sure if they got the onsite or the redpoint.

 

I'm going bacck for the brownpoint this winter, Winter. Wanna join in the staining?

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